Ar
Arbutin
ArbutinActive
Naturally occurring tyrosinase inhibitor; the parent of alpha arbutin. Less potent and less stable than the alpha form.
What it does
Arbutin is a glycosylated form of hydroquinone that releases hydroquinone slowly when applied to the skin. It inhibits tyrosinase (the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production), producing a gentler brightening effect than direct hydroquinone. Alpha arbutin (the synthetic stereoisomer) is more stable and roughly 10x more potent at the same concentration; the natural beta-arbutin form is less commonly the headline today.
The evidence, graded
expert consensusPost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) responds to gentle pigment treatment (azelaic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, vitamin C). Aggressive treatment can worsen the underlying inflammation that caused the PIH — address the inflammation first.Davis 2010 · Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology ↗
emergingAlpha arbutin is pH-flexible and works alongside AHAs without efficacy loss. The AHA's mild exfoliation can enhance arbutin penetration into the targeted melanocyte layer.Maeda 1996 · Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics ↗
Graded per the methodology: strong · moderate · emerging · expert consensus. A weak source on a strong claim gets the weaker label.
Also known as
beta-arbutin
Pairs worth knowing
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