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Gl

Glycyrrhetinic Acid (and derivatives)

Glycyrrhetinic Acid · 18-Beta-Glycyrrhetinic Acid · Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate · Potassium Glycyrrhetinate · Glycyrrhetinyl StearateSoothing

The oil-loving soothing component of licorice root, and the esters made from it — used to calm redness in sensitive-skin and barrier formulas.

What it does

Glycyrrhetinic acid (also called enoxolone or 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid) is the lipophilic compound left when the sugar is removed from glycyrrhizin, licorice root's main saponin. Where dipotassium glycyrrhizate is the water-soluble licorice derivative, glycyrrhetinic acid and its esters — stearyl glycyrrhetinate is the most common — are the oil-soluble ones, so they show up in the cream and balm phase of soothing, redness-calming, and barrier-supporting formulas. Its recognized role is conditioning and calming for reactive skin; specific skin-benefit claims belong with their own cited evidence.

Also known as

18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, enoxolone, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate

Pairs worth knowing

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) · works together ↗Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5) · works together ↗Centella Asiatica (Cica) · works together ↗Licorice Root Extract · works together ↗
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