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3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAntioxidant
A newer vitamin C that mixes into both water and oil, stays stable and turns active well on skin. Big in Korean serums.
What it does
It’s a newer form of vitamin C that dissolves in both water and oil, which is unusual. It stays stable across a wide pH range and turns into active vitamin C efficiently on skin. It does about as well as pure vitamin C at lower strengths. It’s common in newer Korean and mid-priced brightening serums.
The EU’s ingredient database lists it as a skin conditioner, its general term for an ingredient that keeps skin in good condition.European Commission, CosIng (© European Union, CC BY 4.0) · uses put in plain words by Drop ↗
The evidence, graded
strongTwo vitamin C trials measured at 12 weeks, and at 3 and 6 months. In a half-face study of ten people, a 10% ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate gel reduced wrinkling over 12 weeks, with biopsy evidence of new collagen. In a 6-month study, a 5% cream on the low neck and arms raised the global score and microrelief density. Both graded pigment and neither beat its own vehicle on it. A review of seven trials did report lightening.Humbert 2003 · Experimental Dermatology ↗ emergingFine together — vitamin C and vitamin E are both antioxidants, and they were studied as a pair: vitamin C (15% L-ascorbic acid) with 1% vitamin E. Adding ferulic acid, another antioxidant, made the vitamins last longer and doubled the protection against lab UV light, measured by redness and damaged skin cells.Lin 2005 · Journal of Investigative Dermatology ↗ Graded per the methodology: strong · moderate · emerging · expert consensus. A weak source on a strong claim gets the weaker label.
Also known as
EAC, ethyl ascorbic acid, vitamin c
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