Drop · Ingredients
Every ingredient we know, and what the evidence says.
648 ingredients, grouped by what they actually do. Open any one to see the graded evidence — and where there isn’t any yet, an honest blank instead of a claim.
Actives · 31
ActiveAcAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2A synthetic four-amino-acid peptide added for a proposed skin-renewal mechanism — independent human trials on it are limitedActive · 4 sourcesAdAdapaleneA gentler vitamin A aimed at acne — 0.1% sits on the shelf in the US, 0.3% needs a prescription. Give it 8–12 weeksActive · 1 sourceAlAlpha ArbutinA slow-release brightener that’s much easier on skin than hydroquinone — works over 8–12 weeks, often stacked with niacinamide or vitamin CActive · 2 sourcesArArbutinA gentler brightener that slowly releases hydroquinone in skin to slow melanin. The alpha form is more stable and roughly 10x strongerActive · 3 sourcesArArgirelineThe ‘topical Botox’ peptide — the real-world effect on expression lines is subtle and independent evidence is thin. Not an injectable swapActive · 3 sourcesAzAzelaic AcidA gentle multitasker for acne, redness, and dark spots — one of the few actives considered fine in pregnancy. 10% OTC, more by prescriptionActive · 1 sourceBaBakuchiolA plant alternative to retinoids — one study found it comparable to 0.5% retinol with less flaking. Pregnancy data is still limitedActive · 2 sourcesCoCopper Peptides (GHK-Cu)A copper-carrying peptide with evidence for wound repair and collagen support. Popular for skin recovery; the cosmetic evidence is moderateActive · 1 sourceHeHexapeptide-11A gentle yeast-derived peptide — promising in lab-dish work on skin-cell aging, but no trial shows a visible change on real skinActive · 3 sourcesHyHydroquinoneThe strong dark-spot fader for melasma and post-acne marks. Runs in finite courses, not continuously — your prescriber sets the scheduleActive · 2 sourcesHyHydroxypinacolone RetinoateA gentler retinoid (sold as Granactive Retinoid) that skips the conversion steps. Thinner evidence than retinol; still skipped in pregnancyActive · 2 sourcesIsIsotretinoinA pill taken for 4–6 months for severe cystic acne, with side effects that need close monitoring — derm-supervised, not a shelf ingredientActive · 1 sourceKoKojic AcidA fungus-derived brightener for melasma and dark marks, used at 1–4%. Stronger amounts can make skin reactive over timeActive · 1 sourceLiLicorice Root ExtractA plant extract used for dark marks and redness — it works on melanin and calms irritated skin, over months not weeksActive · 2 sourcesMaMatrixylA brand-name signal peptide sold for collagen support — trials show a real but modest drop in wrinkle depth over 4–6 months of daily useActive · 2 sourcesMaMatrixyl 3000A branded pair of signaling peptides for fine lines and firmness — maker studies show modest effects over 8–12 weeksActive · 2 sourcesPaPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7A peptide promoted for both calming and fine lines — mostly on maker studies; usually paired up in Matrixyl 3000Active · 2 sourcesPaPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1A signaling peptide promoted for supporting collagen — modest effects over months in maker studies, moderate outside evidenceActivePaPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5A synthetic peptide sold as a collagen signal — the proposed mechanism is the pitch, but independent trials on it are sparseActive · 2 sourcesPePeptidesMessenger molecules in firming serums — some signal collagen, some carry minerals, some relax expression lines. Evidence varies by peptideActive · 1 sourceReResorcinolA brightening family (hexylresorcinol, thiamidol) that slows melanin — 8–12 weeks to show, but usable nonstop, unlike hydroquinoneActive · 2 sourcesReRetinaldehydeVitamin A one step from active — some studies suggest it works faster than retinol, with similar tolerance. Rare; hard to keep stableActive · 10 sourcesReRetinolThe vitamin A in most night serums — speeds up cell turnover and supports collagen. Takes 8–12 weeks; flaking early onActive · 2 sourcesReRetinyl palmitateThe mildest vitamin A, common in moisturizers and SPF — rarely irritates, but evidence for visible benefit is limitedActive · 1 sourceShsh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF)Lab-made EGF, a signal tied to skin repair and turnover — it’s a big molecule, so most of it likely stays on the surfaceActiveShsh-Oligopeptide-2Lab-made TGF-β peptide used in K-beauty growth-factor serums — penetration of large peptides is limited, so benefit claims are debatedActive · 1 sourceSySyn-AkeA peptide sold as a needle-free wrinkle relaxer — evidence is weak; expect mild surface smoothing, not injection-like resultsActive · 1 sourceTaTazaroteneA prescription vitamin A for acne and psoriasis. Its pregnancy labelling is the strictest of the class — raise it with a clinicianActive · 2 sourcesTrTranexamic AcidA brightener for melasma and stubborn patches, usually 2–5% — stacks well with vitamin C and niacinamide for toneActive · 9 sourcesTrTretinoinThe active form of vitamin A, roughly 20× stronger than retinol and prescription-only in most places. Used for acne, sun damage, uneven toneActive · 1 sourceTrTrifaroteneA newer prescription vitamin A for acne, including chest and back. The class pregnancy caution applies to it too
Exfoliants · 16
Exfoliant · 3 sourcesBeBetaine SalicylateA gentler take on salicylic acid — oil-soluble, so it works inside the pore on the buildup behind clogs and blackheadsExfoliant · 2 sourcesCiCitric AcidTechnically an AHA, but it’s mostly there to set a formula’s pH — a weaker exfoliant than glycolic or lacticExfoliant · 1 sourceGlGluconolactoneThe gentlest exfoliating acid — similar smoothing with much less stinging or sun sensitivity. Often the first acid for sensitive skinExfoliant · 5 sourcesGlGlycolic AcidThe classic exfoliating acid in toners and peels — loosens dead surface cells to smooth texture and even tone over weeksExfoliant · 4 sourcesLaLactic AcidA gentler exfoliating acid that also pulls in water — a friendlier pick for sensitive skin. Above 10% it gets close to glycolicExfoliant · 1 sourceLaLactobionic AcidA mild sugar-acid exfoliant that also holds water and scavenges free radicals — handy for sensitive, dehydrated, or post-procedure skinExfoliant · 2 sourcesMaMalic AcidAn apple-derived exfoliating acid, nearly always a supporting player in acid blends. Like any AHA, it raises sun sensitivityExfoliant · 1 sourceMaMandelic AcidThe slow, mild exfoliating acid — often the first pick for new users, sensitive skin, or melanin-rich skin prone to dark marksExfoliant · 1 sourcePaPapainThe papaya enzyme exfoliant — breaks the protein bonds holding dead cells on, gentler than strong acids. Careful if latex-allergicExfoliant · 1 sourcePaPapaya ExtractA gentle enzyme exfoliant — milder than acids, so it often suits skin that finds glycolic too harsh. Works slowlyExfoliant · 1 sourceSaSalicinThe willow-bark compound that partly turns into salicylic acid on skin — gentler and slower than the acid itselfExfoliant · 3 sourcesSaSalicylic AcidThe oil-loving acid in acne products — gets into pores and dissolves the plug. Good for blackheads and oily skin; 2% is the OTC maxExfoliant · 2 sourcesSuSuccinic AcidA mild acid in spot products, sold as gentler than salicylic or benzoyl peroxide — effects are modest, more upkeep than fixExfoliant · 1 sourceSuSulfurAn old-school acne and seborrheic-dermatitis ingredient — smell and dryness push most people to masks or short-contact useExfoliant · 3 sourcesTaTartaric AcidA grape-derived AHA that usually shows up in multi-acid blends — like other AHAs, it raises sun sensitivityExfoliant · 1 sourceWiWillow Bark ExtractThe “natural BHA” — it turns into a little salicylic acid on skin, but it’s weaker than using salicylic acid directly
Antioxidants · 55
Antioxidant · 2 sourcesOe3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidA newer vitamin C that mixes into both water and oil, stays stable, and turns active well on skin — big in K-beauty serumsAntioxidantAaAçaí Fruit ExtractPurple açaí berry polyphenols that add antioxidant activity at the surface — a supporting extract, usually at modest levelsAntioxidantAlAlgae ExtractA generic seaweed extract with no species named — usually a low-cost humectant and antioxidant helper; activity varies a lotAntioxidant · 2 sourcesAlAlpha Lipoic AcidAn antioxidant that works in both water and oil — moderate evidence alone; best as a partner to vitamin C and EAntioxidantApApple Fruit ExtractApple flesh and peel polyphenols that add antioxidant activity at the surface — usually a supporting extract at modest levelsAntioxidant · 1 sourceAsAscorbyl GlucosideOne of the most stable vitamin C forms, but slow to turn active on skin — give it 2–3 months for visible brighteningAntioxidant · 1 sourceAsAscorbyl PalmitateAn oil-soluble vitamin C used mostly to keep other oils from going rancid — modest skin effect at typical amountsAntioxidant · 2 sourcesAsAscorbyl TetraisopalmitateThe oil-friendly vitamin C — stable, doesn’t sting, and turns active on skin. Common in pricier sensitive-skin serumsAntioxidant · 1 sourceAsAstaxanthinA deep-red antioxidant that outdoes vitamin E in lab tests — topical evidence is thin, and it tints formulas pinkAntioxidantBaBasil ExtractSweet basil leaf and flower extract — phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity and a faint aromatic note. A supporting playerAntioxidantBhBHTA long-used antioxidant added in tiny amounts to keep a product’s oils from going rancid — it protects the formula, not skinAntioxidant · 1 sourceBiBilberry ExtractA berry antioxidant, same pigment family as blueberries — a nice partner to vitamin C in a morning serumAntioxidantBlBlueberry Fruit ExtractLowbush blueberry — deep-blue anthocyanins and other polyphenols that add antioxidant activity. A supporting plant extractAntioxidantCaCaffeineThe eye-area de-puffer — narrows vessels for a few hours. Modest and short-lived; evidence for lasting wrinkle benefit is weakAntioxidantCaCamellia Japonica Flower ExtractCamellia petals — a different prep from Tsubaki seed oil, with flavonoids for antioxidant activity and a mild astringent feelAntioxidantCaCarnosineA small peptide antioxidant that in lab studies also mops up the reactive bits behind glycation — human topical trials are limitedAntioxidantCiCitrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit ExtractLemon fruit extract with vitamin C precursors and flavonoids — a mild brightening antioxidant, distinct from the more potent peel oilAntioxidantCoCoccinia Indica Fruit ExtractIvy gourd fruit extract — polyphenols and flavonoids with antioxidant activity. A supporting botanical, not the headline nameAntioxidantCoCocoa ExtractCocoa bean polyphenols that add antioxidant activity — a different ingredient from cocoa butter, which is the softening fatAntioxidant · 2 sourcesCoCoenzyme Q10A fat-soluble antioxidant your cells already make — a supporting player in serums; the “cell energy” pitch outruns the evidenceAntioxidantCoCoptis Japonica Root ExtractJapanese goldthread root — berberine and related compounds with antioxidant activity; the bright yellow color is the giveawayAntioxidantEgEggplant Fruit ExtractEggplant extract — nasunin, the purple antioxidant pigment, plus other phenolics. A botanical antioxidant in brightening formulasAntioxidantErErgothioneineA rare antioxidant the body actively collects — found in mushrooms and beans, and growing in premium antioxidant serumsAntioxidantEtEthyl FerulateAn oil-friendly form of ferulic acid — an antioxidant mostly used to help vitamin C and E last longer before they oxidizeAntioxidant · 1 sourceFeFerulic AcidThe sidekick that keeps vitamin C from breaking down in the bottle, plus its own antioxidant action. Rarely sold on its ownAntioxidant · 1 sourceGiGinger ExtractA supporting antioxidant used in small amounts — the warming tingle can be uncomfortable on sensitive skinAntioxidantGiGinkgo Biloba ExtractA leaf extract with antioxidant activity in lab tests — a supporting player in eye serums, not a headline activeAntioxidant · 2 sourcesGiGinseng ExtractA K-beauty antioxidant favorite in toners and essences — supportive rather than load-bearing next to vitamin CAntioxidantGlGlutathioneSold for brightening, but it barely gets into skin — most evidence comes from oral or IV use. Marketing runs ahead of the evidenceAntioxidant · 1 sourceGrGreen Tea Extract (EGCG)A morning antioxidant that mops up damage from sun and pollution — best alongside vitamin C and sunscreen. Common in calming serumsAntioxidantHeHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) ExtractSunflower flower and leaf extract — not the seed oil; polyphenols that act as antioxidants with mild calming supportAntioxidantHiHimanthalia Elongata (Sea Thong) ExtractAtlantic sea thong seaweed — antioxidant polyphenols and skin-conditioning polysaccharides, limited clinical dataAntioxidantHoHoly Basil ExtractTulsi leaf extract — a different plant from sweet basil, with phenolic compounds that act as antioxidants at the surfaceAntioxidant · 1 sourceIdIdebenoneA lab-made cousin of CoQ10 with stronger antioxidant power — but allergy reports run higher, so patch-test firstAntioxidant · 9 sourcesLaL-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)The vitamin C in brightening serums — mops up daily free-radical damage, supports collagen, and slows melanin. Its low pH is why some stingAntioxidant · 2 sourcesMaMagnesium Ascorbyl PhosphateA stable, water-loving vitamin C that layers with niacinamide more easily — brightening at 3–5%AntioxidantOpOpuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Stem ExtractMucilage-rich cactus stem extract — binds water and delivers polyphenols; distinct from the pricier seed oilAntioxidantOrOrange Fruit ExtractOrange flesh and juice, not peel — citrus antioxidants without the terpenes that raise sun sensitivity. No swap for a vitamin C serumAntioxidantPePear Fruit ExtractPear flesh and skin — mild antioxidant polyphenols plus a trace of water-holding sugars. A supporting extract at modest levelsAntioxidantPePeony Root ExtractPeony root — paeoniflorin and other phenolics with antioxidant and calming activity, used as a gentle botanical brightenerAntioxidantPhPhysalis Angulata (Ground Cherry) ExtractGround cherry extract with anti-inflammatory physalins — well-studied internally, limited direct topical dataAntioxidant · 1 sourcePhPhytic AcidMostly a stabilizer that binds metals so vitamin C serums last longer — some brightening reported, evidence is moderateAntioxidant · 1 sourcePoPomegranate ExtractA polyphenol-rich antioxidant with strong lab activity — a supporting ingredient rather than a headline oneAntioxidantPsPsidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit ExtractGuava is unusually high in vitamin C and lycopene — useful antioxidant botanical, though topical RCT data is thinAntioxidant · 2 sourcesPyPycnogenol (Pine Bark Extract)A branded pine bark extract with strong antioxidant activity — more evidence taken by mouth than on skin; a serum supporting actAntioxidant · 2 sourcesReResveratrolA grape-derived antioxidant that works differently than vitamin C or E, so it shows up in blends. Formulation matters more than the amountAntioxidantRiRice Bran ExtractA light, non-greasy antioxidant for serums and creams — the UV-protection claims outrun the evidence; it’s no sunscreen swapAntioxidantRoRosemary Leaf ExtractA plant antioxidant that mops up free radicals and slows oils in the bottle from going off — carries a faint herbal aromaAntioxidantScScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractChinese skullcap root — flavonoids that act as antioxidants; a supporting player in calming formulas, not the main activeAntioxidantSiSiraitia Grosvenorii (Monk Fruit) ExtractMonk fruit extract with antioxidant mogrosides — primarily known as a sweetener, used in skincare as a mild soothing antioxidantAntioxidant · 2 sourcesSoSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateThe most stable everyday vitamin C form — it turns active on skin and also works on acne bacteria. Effects are gradualAntioxidantSoSodium MetabisulfiteA stability antioxidant — protects fragile ingredients from turning brown or losing potencyAntioxidantToTocopheryl AcetateA shelf-stable form of vitamin E that keeps a product’s oils from going off — milder on skin than plain vitamin EAntioxidantTuTurmeric ExtractA strong antioxidant in lab tests, used in tiny amounts because it stains skin and clothes bright yellow-orangeAntioxidant · 1 sourceViVitamin E (Tocopherol)An antioxidant that shields the oily part of your barrier — strongest evidence when paired with vitamin C and ferulic acid
Hydrators · 73
HydratorHe1,2-HexanediolA small solvent that holds a little water and spreads a formula — mostly there to back up the preservative system, quietlyHydratorAcAcetyl GlutamineA stabilized form of the amino acid glutamine — holds water at the skin’s surface for a smooth feelHydratorAnAnhydroxylitolA moisture binder made from xylitol — draws and holds water at the skin’s surface for a hydrated feelHydrator · 2 sourcesBeBetaineA smooth, non-sticky moisture-puller that also helps cells hold water under stress. Common in essences and toners; pairs with glycerinHydratorBiBiosaccharide Gum-1A fermented sugar that binds water in a light, breathable surface film — smooth, soft, conditioned feelHydrator · 1 sourceBuButylene GlycolDoes propylene glycol’s job — pulls in water, dissolves actives — with less irritation and a lighter feel than glycerin aloneHydrator · 1 sourceCaCaprylyl GlycolA small glycol that lightly hydrates and helps the main preservative work harder. Well tolerated, without propylene glycol’s stingHydratorChChondrus Crispus ExtractIrish moss seaweed — thickens a formula and holds water in a light surface film for a slippery, cushiony feelHydratorClCladosiphon Okamuranus ExtractOkinawan mozuku seaweed — its fucoidan draws and holds water at the surface for a cushiony feel. A supporting humectantHydratorCoCorallina Officinalis ExtractA chalky red seaweed extract carrying minerals and water-holding sugars — a supporting humectant in hydrating serums and masksHydratorDeDecylene GlycolA multitasking glycol — dissolves ingredients, conditions the surface, and helps the preservative system workHydratorDeDextranA sugar polymer made by fermentation — holds water at the surface and dries to a light, smoothing filmHydratorDiDiglycerinTwo glycerin units joined — pulls water to the skin like glycerin, with a less tacky feelHydratorDiDimethylsilanol HyaluronateA hyaluronic acid tweaked with silicon — holds water at the surface and adds extra smooth slip. Texture, not an activeHydratorDiDipropylene GlycolDissolves fragrance, actives, and plant extracts into water-based formulas — adds light hydration and a smooth feelHydrator · 1 sourceEcEctoinA tiny water-binding molecule from extreme-environment bacteria — hydrating, mildly calming, and very well toleratedHydratorEtEthylhexanediolA glycol that dissolves ingredients, holds a little water at the surface, and helps the preservative system do its jobHydratorFrFructooligosaccharidesShort fructose chains — hold water at the skin’s surface and act as a prebiotic meant to support skin’s microbe balanceHydratorFrFructoseThe fruit sugar used as a humectant — pulls in and holds water at the surface for a softer, smoother feelHydratorGaGalactoarabinanA water-holding sugar from larch trees — hydrates the surface and dries to a light, smoothing filmHydrator · 1 sourceGaGalactomyces Ferment FiltrateThe fermented base of most K- and J-beauty essences — modest gains in hydration and evenness, on thinner evidence than niacinamideHydratorGlGlucoseA basic sugar that pulls in and holds water to support surface hydration — mild, and a building block for other ingredientsHydratorGlGlycereth-26A glycerin-based moisture magnet — pulls water to the skin’s surface and holds it thereHydrator · 5 sourcesGlGlycerinThe plain, heavily studied moisture-puller in almost everything, from drugstore cleansers to pricey serums. Very well toleratedHydratorGlGlyceryl GlucosideA hydrator made from glycerin and glucose — attracts and holds water at the skin’s surfaceHydratorGlGlycineThe simplest amino acid, part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor — attracts and holds water at the surfaceHydratorHeHexylene GlycolA small solvent that dissolves other ingredients and keeps a formula pourable and light — also helps the preservative systemHydratorHoHoneyA concentrated natural sugar — draws and holds water at the skin’s surface, with a sticky feel some masks useHydrator · 1 sourceHyHyaluronic AcidThe water magnet in hydrating serums — pulls moisture to the surface. Use on damp skin and seal it in, or dry air can leave you drierHydratorHyHydrolyzed CollagenCollagen broken into small fragments — binds water and smooths the surface; it doesn’t rebuild your skin’s own collagenHydratorHyHydrolyzed Corn StarchCorn starch broken into small pieces — holds water, adds soft slip, and forms a light, smoothing filmHydratorHyHydrolyzed Soy ProteinSoy protein broken into small pieces — binds water and leaves a light film for a smoother, conditioned feelHydratorHyHydrolyzed Vegetable ProteinPlant protein in small water-soluble pieces — binds water and leaves a light film for a conditioned feelHydratorHyHydrolyzed Wheat ProteinWheat protein in small water-soluble pieces — attracts water and leaves a light, conditioning filmHydratorHyHydroxyethyl UreaA urea-related hydrator — attracts and holds water at the skin’s surface with a light, non-tacky feelHydratorHyHydroxypropyltrimonium HyaluronateA hyaluronic acid that clings to skin and hair — holds water in a longer-lasting film. Hydration and softness, not an activeHydratorInInositolA sugar-like molecule used to hold water at the surface and leave skin feeling smoothHydratorIsIsopentyldiolA glycol that dissolves other ingredients and holds water at the surface — also boosts the preservative systemHydratorMaMannitolA sugar alcohol that holds water, so it adds light hydration and a smooth feel — gentle, and it also helps steady some formulasHydratorMeMethyl Gluceth-20A glucose-based hydrator — attracts water to the skin’s surface and adds a light, smooth slipHydratorMeMethylpropanediolHolds water at the skin surface and dissolves hard-to-mix ingredients — feels light, and can help other actives sink inHydratorPaPantolactoneA close cousin of panthenol (provitamin B5) — conditions the surface and helps steady a formula’s pHHydratorPePEG-8A water-loving helper — holds moisture at the surface, dissolves other ingredients, and smooths the feelHydrator · 1 sourcePePentylene GlycolA light, non-tacky moisture-puller that also helps preserve the formula, so brands can use less phenoxyethanolHydrator · 3 sourcesPoPolyglutamic AcidA fermented moisture-holding film that outperforms glycerin alone in tests — often paired with HA, which sinks in while PGA stays on topHydratorPoPolyglycerin-3Three glycerin units joined — draws water to the skin like glycerin but with a lighter, less tacky feelHydratorPrProlineAn amino acid humectant — helps draw and hold water at the skin’s surface for a smoother feelHydratorPrPropanediolA light water-binder that also dissolves hard-to-mix ingredients — a gentler-feeling stand-in for propylene glycolHydrator · 1 sourcePrPropylene GlycolA moisture-puller and solvent high on many serum labels. The antifreeze rumor is misleading — but in larger amounts it can sting sore skinHydratorRhRhamnoseA simple plant sugar — helps hold water at the skin’s surface for a smooth, hydrated feelHydrator · 1 sourceRiRice WaterStrained rice water — a mix of hydrators and mild antioxidants, used in K-beauty for brightening. Slow and modestHydratorSaSaccharide IsomerateA plant-sugar hydrator — binds water to skin and is marketed for longer-lasting surface hydrationHydrator · 1 sourceSeSea Kelp ExtractSeaweed sugars that hold water on the skin — a nice supporting hydrator; the “detoxifying” talk is marketingHydratorSeSea WaterPurified seawater carrying minerals like magnesium and potassium — used as a water base and humectant part of a formulaHydratorSeSericinA silk protein — binds water and forms a light, smooth film for a softer, conditioned feelHydratorSeSerineAn amino acid from skin’s natural moisturizing factor — attracts and holds water for a softer, smoother feelHydratorSoSodium Acetylated HyaluronateA tweaked form of hyaluronic acid that clings to skin — draws in water and keeps the moisturized feel around longerHydratorSoSodium Carboxymethyl BetaglucanA water-soluble beta-glucan — holds water at the skin’s surface and forms a light, smoothing filmHydrator · 2 sourcesSoSodium HyaluronateWhat’s actually in most “hyaluronic acid” products — a water-binder; small sizes reach deeper, large ones sit on topHydratorSoSodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerA linked-up form of hyaluronic acid — sits on the surface as a water-holding gel so hydration stays put longerHydrator · 2 sourcesSoSodium LactateThe salt form of lactic acid — it hydrates instead of exfoliating, and it’s part of skin’s own moisture systemHydrator · 2 sourcesSoSodium PCAOne of the skin’s own moisture-holding molecules, bottled — hydrates about as well as glycerin and generally suits sensitive skinHydratorSoSoluble CollagenWater-soluble collagen that holds water in a light surface film for a smoother feel — it doesn’t replace your own collagenHydrator · 1 sourceSoSorbitolA sugar alcohol that pulls in moisture much like glycerin but feels less sticky — common in lip balms, hand creams, and gentle cleansersHydratorSuSucrosePlain sugar — holds water at the skin’s surface; in scrubs it’s the grain that dissolves as you massageHydratorTaTaurineA small organic acid used as a humectant — helps hold water at the skin’s surface for a smooth feelHydratorTrTrehaloseA natural sugar that holds water unusually well — a mild hydrator that plays nicely with glycerin and hyaluronic acidHydratorTrTremella Fuciformis ExtractSnow mushroom — its big sugar molecule holds water at the surface much like hyaluronic acid, for a smooth, slippery feelHydrator · 2 sourcesUrUreaAt 3–5% it pulls in water; at 10% and up it also softens rough, bumpy skin like keratosis pilaris or cracked heelsHydratorWaWatermelon Fruit ExtractWatermelon flesh — water plus amino acids that hold moisture at the surface, with a little carotenoid antioxidant activityHydratorXyXylitolA sugar alcohol that pulls in and holds water — helps keep the skin surface hydrated and the formula from drying outHydratorXyXylitylglucosideA sugar-derived hydrator, usually in a xylitol blend — attracts and holds water at the skin’s surfaceHydratorYeYeast Amino AcidsAmino acids from yeast that hold water at the surface and leave skin feeling smooth
Barrier ingredients · 163
BarrierApApricot Kernel OilA light, fast-absorbing seed oil that softens skin and eases a tight, dry feelBarrierArArachidyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol (not a drying one) — thickens creams and adds a rich, smooth, conditioning feelBarrier · 1 sourceArArgan OilA balanced, fairly light plant oil with vitamin E — a nice finishing step for dry skin. The ‘liquid gold’ hype outruns plain softeningBarrier · 1 sourceAvAvocado OilA heavy, slow-absorbing oil for very dry skin and balms. Its oleic-heavy profile makes it a poor fit for acne- or fungal-acne-prone skinBarrier · 1 sourceBeBeeswaxThe wax that gives balms structure and seals moisture in — can feel heavy on the face; vegans swap in candelillaBarrierBeBeheneth-20An emulsifier and texture agent — blends oil and water, dissolves oily ingredients, and builds thicknessBarrierBeBehenic AcidA long-chain fatty acid that thickens creams — gives them body and helps keep emulsions stableBarrierBeBehenyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol that softens and thickens creams — nothing like drying alcohol, despite the nameBarrierBiBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2A soft, semi-solid softener similar to skin’s own fats — rich cushiony slip; structures balms and lip productsBarrier · 2 sourcesBoBorage OilA plant oil rich in GLA, an omega-6 fat — may modestly support the barrier. Goes rancid fast, so store it carefullyBarrierBrBrassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil CopolymerA plant-oil polymer that forms a flexible, water-resistant film — helps a product stay put and resist transferBarrierBuButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateA light coconut-derived softener that glides on and dries silky — used to cut greasiness in lotions and serumsBarrierBuButyloctyl SalicylateAn oily ester that adds slip and dissolves sunscreen filters so they spread evenly — despite the name, not an exfoliating acidBarrierCC10-18 TriglyceridesA blend of fats that soften near skin temperature — smooth melting feel; structures balms and creamsBarrierCC12-15 Alkyl BenzoateThe dry, silky oil-alternative in lotions, sunscreens, and serums — softens skin and helps a product spread without greaseBarrierCC12-20 Alkyl GlucosideA mild plant-derived emulsifier made from sugars and fatty alcohols — blends oil and waterBarrierCC15-19 AlkaneA light plant-derived emollient, often from sugarcane — dry, silky, non-greasy feel in place of light siliconesBarrierCC18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearateA long-chain wax that firms up sticks, balms, and rich creams — smooth payoff; texture, not a skin activeBarrier · 1 sourceCaCamellia OilA light, long-lasting Japanese face and hair oil — but it’s oleic-rich, so not ideal if you get fungal acneBarrierCaCandelilla WaxThe vegan stand-in for beeswax in balms and lip products — a bit firmer, so formulas need less of itBarrierCaCanola OilA light plant oil — softens the skin’s surface and forms a thin layer that slows water lossBarrier · 1 sourceCaCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideThe light, silky oil in tons of serums and sunscreens — made from coconut oil but without its pore-clogging reputationBarrierCaCaprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic TriglycerideA stable skin-softening oil — smooth, with a slightly richer slip than lighter triglyceridesBarrierCaCaprylyl Caprylate/CaprateA coconut-derived emollient with a dry, silky finish — softens skin, often replacing volatile siliconesBarrierCaCaprylyl MethiconeA silicone-oil hybrid with a light, dry slip — helps sunscreen filters and other oils dissolve and spread evenlyBarrierCaCarnauba WaxThe hardest natural wax — it keeps sticks and balms solid in warm weatherBarrierCaCastor OilA thick, sticky oil used in lip balms and lash oils — heavy on the face and sometimes flagged as pore-cloggingBarrier · 2 sourcesCeCeramidesAbout half of the skin’s own barrier fats. Age, harsh cleansing, and strong actives strip them; topping them up rebuilds the barrierBarrierCeCeteareth-12An emulsifier and mild cleansing agent — blends oil and water into a stable mix and helps lift away oilsBarrierCeCetearyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol that thickens lotions and softens skin — not the drying kind of alcohol, despite the nameBarrierCeCetearyl IsononanoateA non-greasy softening ester — gives creams and makeup a smooth, cushioned glideBarrierCeCeteth-20An emulsifier and solubilizer — blends oil and water and dissolves small amounts of oily ingredients into water basesBarrierCeCetyl AlcoholThe lighter half of cetearyl alcohol — a waxy softener and emulsion stabilizer, not the drying kind of alcoholBarrierCeCetyl BehenateA wax-like softener that firms up balms and sticks and adds a smooth feelBarrierCeCetyl DimethiconeA soft, silky silicone — conditions the surface, adds slip, and helps thicken creams and color productsBarrierCeCetyl EthylhexanoateA silky ester with a light, dry finish — softens and smooths the surface and makes creams and makeup feel better going onBarrierCeCetyl PalmitateA waxy ester that thickens balms and rich creams and softens the skin surface — a texture-and-feel ingredient, not an activeBarrierChChenopodium Quinoa (Quinoa) Seed ExtractProtein-rich quinoa extract that forms a light skin-conditioning film — softening function, not a standalone activeBarrier · 1 sourceChCholesterolOne of the three barrier fats, alongside ceramides and fatty acids — rarely the headline, but foundational in barrier-repair formulasBarrierCoCoco-CaprylateA coconut-derived oil with a dry, fast-sinking slip like light silicone — the natural-formula pick for spreadability and softnessBarrier · 1 sourceCoCocoa ButterA rich body butter classic — often flagged as pore-clogging on faces, and the stretch-mark claims are mostly anecdotalBarrierCoCocoglyceridesCoconut-derived softening fats — smooth emollient feel; help structure and stabilize creamsBarrier · 3 sourcesCoCoconut OilA rich body moisturizer and oil-cleanser staple — but one of the most flagged pore-cloggers on faces, and it feeds fungal acneBarrierCuCupuaçu Seed ButterA soft Amazonian butter related to cocoa — takes up water for a cushiony, softening feel in rich creamsBarrierCyCyclohexasiloxaneA light silicone that carries other ingredients with a silky slip, then evaporates — weightless finishBarrier · 1 sourceCyCyclopentasiloxaneThe silicone behind that silky primer finish that disappears as it dries — EU flagged it in rinse-offs over the environmentBarrierDiDibutyl AdipateA light ester that softens skin and helps a product spread without feeling oily — also dissolves sunscreen filtersBarrierDiDicaprylyl CarbonateA silky, fast-sinking oil that thins heavier butters so a formula spreads dry, not slick — also helps dissolve sunscreen filtersBarrierDiDicaprylyl EtherA coconut-derived oil with a dry, fast-sinking feel — helps a product glide on without greasiness; also helps lift off makeupBarrierDiDiisopropyl AdipateA thin, dry-touch oil that sinks in fast without grease and dissolves sunscreen filters or fragrance so they spread evenlyBarrierDiDiisopropyl SebacateA lightweight softener with a smooth, low-residue slip — helps other oily ingredients spread and mix evenlyBarrierDiDiisostearyl MalateThe rich, glossy, cushiony ester behind lipsticks, balms, and glosses — softens, adds shine, and helps color glide on evenlyBarrier · 2 sourcesDiDimethiconeThe silicone that smooths texture and holds water in under a breathable film — non-comedogenic and inert, despite the rumorsBarrierDiDimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 CrosspolymerA silicone that forms a flexible film — softens the look of fine texture, adds silky slip, helps a product wear evenlyBarrierDiDimethiconolA rich silicone that leaves a smooth, flexible film — long-lasting slip and a softened look for fine textureBarrierDiDipentaerythrityl HexahydroxystearateA thick, cushiony emollient — binds pigments, adds gloss, and gives structure to balms and oil-based makeupBarrierEtEthylhexyl PalmitateA light ester that softens the skin surface and spreads easily with a dry, non-oily finish — also helps disperse pigmentsBarrierEtEthylhexyl StearateA softening ester with a cushioned, lubricating feel — helps oils spread and pigments blend in tinted productsBarrier · 1 sourceEvEvening Primrose OilA linoleic-rich oil matching the barrier’s own fats — friendlier to acne-prone skin than oleic-heavy oils. Goes rancid fast, so store wellBarrierGlGlyceryl BehenateA wax-like texture ingredient — gives sticks and balms their structure and adds a smooth, softening feelBarrierGlGlyceryl OleateA softener that also helps oil and water stay mixed — in cleansers it can leave skin feeling less strippedBarrierGlGlyceryl StearateOne of the most common emulsifiers — it keeps the water and oil in a cream from separating, and adds a soft feelBarrierGlGlycol DistearateThe pearly look in many cleansers — tiny crystals give an opaque, shimmery finish and a soft, creamy feelBarrier · 1 sourceGrGrapeseed OilA light, mostly linoleic oil that suits oily and combination skin — good for oil cleansing or a thin layer. Oxidizes easily, so avoid heatBarrier · 1 sourceHeHemp Seed OilA light seed oil whose fats match skin’s own — a reasonable pick for acne- and fungal-acne-prone skin. Not the same as CBD oilBarrierHeHexyl LaurateA light emollient oil — softens the skin’s surface and helps spread pigments evenlyBarrierHyHydrogen DimethiconeA silicone coating for pigments and mineral powders — makes them water-repellent and easier to disperse evenlyBarrierHyHydrogenated Castor OilCastor oil turned into a hard wax — thickens balms and sticks and gives them structure and a smooth glideBarrierHyHydrogenated Palm GlyceridesSemi-solid palm-derived fats — soften skin, give creams and balms body, and help keep oil and water togetherBarrierHyHydrogenated PolydeceneA clear, stable synthetic oil with a light, silky, non-greasy slip — often used in place of mineral oil or siliconesBarrierHyHydrogenated PolyisobuteneA synthetic oil with a smooth, cushiony, long-wearing glide — softens the surface, adds shine to balms, and resists going offBarrierHyHydrogenated Rapeseed OilRapeseed oil made more solid and stable — thickens creams and balms and leaves a soft, conditioned feelBarrierHyHydrogenated Shea ButterA firmer, shelf-stable form of shea butter — softens skin, slows water loss, and gives balms structureBarrierHyHydrogenated Vegetable OilPlant oil firmed up for stability — softens skin and gives balms, sticks, and rich creams body and a smooth meltBarrierInInulin Lauryl CarbamateA chicory-sugar emulsifier that keeps oil and water mixed and the texture smoother, usually with other emulsifiersBarrierIsIsoamyl LaurateA light, silky plant-based emollient — softens skin and adds slip, often standing in for light siliconesBarrierIsIsodecyl NeopentanoateA fast-spreading softener with a dry, velvety finish — keeps makeup, sunscreens, and light lotions from feeling greasyBarrierIsIsododecaneAn ultra-light oil that spreads fast then evaporates — the weightless feel behind long-wear, transfer-proof texturesBarrierIsIsohexadecaneA very light, dry-feeling oil that spreads fast and leaves little residue — carries pigments and oils in primers, SPF, and makeupBarrierIsIsononyl IsononanoateA lightweight softener with a smooth, dry slip — helps sunscreens and makeup spread without a greasy finishBarrier · 1 sourceIsIsopropyl MyristateA silky, fast-absorbing texture ingredient in lotions — an old pore-clogging flag makes it a suspect if a cream breaks you outBarrier · 1 sourceIsIsopropyl PalmitateA slightly heavier cousin of isopropyl myristate in body care and makeup — carries the same old pore-clogging flagBarrierIsIsostearyl IsostearateA richer, cushiony softener — smooths the surface, adds slip, and helps pigments spread in balms and makeupBarrierJoJojoba EstersSoft wax beads or solids made from jojoba oil — condition skin with silky slip; also a gentle scrub beadBarrier · 1 sourceJoJojoba OilA liquid wax closer to your skin’s own oil than most plant oils — one of the easiest facial oils to tolerate, even on oily skinBarrierJoJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil EstersSoft wax esters from jojoba and macadamia oils — melt on contact for smooth slip and a soft balm textureBarrierKoKokum ButterThe hardest of the common butters — a little adds structure to a balm without feeling heavy. Generally won’t clog poresBarrier · 1 sourceLaLanolinA very effective moisture sealer from sheep wool, more flexible-feeling than petrolatum — but also a common allergen, so patch test firstBarrier · 1 sourceLaLauric AcidA softening fatty acid (C12) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally useBarrierLaLauryl LactateA light softening ester — conditions the surface and helps other ingredients spread and absorbBarrierLaLauryl LaurateA wax-like softener that adds a smooth, slightly powdery slip and helps give balms and makeup structureBarrierLeLecithinA natural fat that holds oil and water together and can carry other ingredients — leaves a soft, conditioned feelBarrier · 2 sourcesLiLinoleic AcidAn essential fatty acid your body can’t make, part of the barrier’s fat matrix. Acne-prone skin runs low, so linoleic-rich oils can helpBarrierMaMacadamia Seed OilA rich plant oil with sebum-like fatty acids — softens skin; oleic-heavy oils are a poor fit for fungal-acne-prone skinBarrierMaMango ButterA body butter that feels lighter than cocoa and softer than shea, with less of the pore-clogging flagBarrier · 1 sourceMaMarula OilA rich, oleic-heavy finishing oil for dry to very dry skin. Not ideal for fungal-acne-prone skin, since oleic acid can feed malasseziaBarrierMeMeadowfoam EstolideA light emollient from meadowfoam seeds — softens skin with a smooth, silky slip and resists oxidationBarrierMeMeadowfoam Seed OilA light oil that resists going rancid longer than almost any other plant oil — long shelf life, and a good finishing oil or blend stabilizerBarrierMeMethyl TrimethiconeA light silicone that spreads things silky-smooth, then mostly evaporates — smooth finish, no residueBarrierMiMicrocrystalline WaxA flexible petroleum wax — structures balms and sticks, binds oils together, and leaves a smooth sealing filmBarrier · 3 sourcesMiMineral OilA refined, inert sealer that slows water loss — cosmetic grade tests non-comedogenic despite the old reputation. Lighter than petrolatumBarrierMoMoringa Seed OilA plant oil that resists going rancid — softens and conditions skin and helps slow water lossBarrierMuMurumuru ButterA firm Amazonian palm butter — melts at skin temperature, softening skin and slowing water lossBarrier · 1 sourceMyMyristic AcidA softening fatty acid (C14) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally useBarrierMyMyristyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol, not a drying one — thickens creams and keeps oil and water from separatingBarrierMyMyristyl MyristateA wax-like softener and thickener — gives creams and sticks body with a smooth, almost powdery slipBarrier · 1 sourceNeNeem OilA thick, strong-smelling seed oil that softens the skin surface — an emollient, not an activeBarrierNeNeopentyl Glycol DiheptanoateA light softener that glides on and dries powdery-smooth — used to cut greasiness in lotions and makeupBarrierOcOctyldodecanolA big fatty alcohol that softens skin and helps a product spread — also dissolves some pigments and actives; well toleratedBarrierOcOctyldodecyl NeopentanoateA lightweight softener that spreads fast — dry, velvety finish with no heavy or oily afterfeelBarrier · 1 sourceOlOleic AcidA softening fatty acid (C18:1) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally useBarrier · 2 sourcesOlOlive OilRich oil that’s ~70% oleic acid — feeds fungal-acne yeast, and not for a fragile barrier; skip during eczema or seb-derm flaresBarrierOzOzokeriteA natural mineral wax that hardens balms and sticks — keeps oils from separating and raises the melting pointBarrier · 1 sourcePaPalmitic AcidA softening fatty acid (C16) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally useBarrierPaParaffinA solid petroleum wax that structures balms and sticks — its film slows water loss from the skin’s surfaceBarrierPePentaerythrityl TetraethylhexanoateA light, stable softener common in sunscreens — smooth dry slip, dissolves UV filters, spreads pigments evenlyBarrier · 1 sourcePePentaerythrityl TetraisostearateA rich, cushiony ester that mimics silicone feel without silicones — more pore-clogging potential if it’s high on the labelBarrier · 2 sourcesPePetrolatumThe most effective moisture sealer there is, cutting water loss about 99% — the last layer in slugging and barrier rebuildsBarrierPhPhenoxyethyl CaprylateA light softener and solvent that also gives mild antimicrobial support — better feel plus help protecting the formulaBarrierPhPhenyl TrimethiconeA shine-adding silicone — mostly in hair serums and lip products, where it brings gloss and slip rather than moistureBarrierPhPhospholipidsSkin-friendly fats from soy or sunflower — soften the surface and help carry other ingredients in tiny lipid spheresBarrierPhPhytosphingosineA lipid your skin barrier is partly built from, used at low levels alongside ceramides to support the barrier and condition skinBarrierPhPhytosterolsPlant fats related to skin’s own lipids — soften the surface and give creams a smooth, stable bodyBarrierPhPhytosteryl MacadamiateA rich softener from plant sterols and macadamia fatty acids — cushiony feel; helps structure creamsBarrierPhPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer DilinoleateA big plant-based ester that thickens oils and grips pigment — gives balms and makeup a rich, cushiony slipBarrierPoPolybuteneA thick, tacky polymer that leaves a high-shine, cushiony, long-wearing film — the staple behind glossy lip productsBarrierPoPolyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleateA castor-oil emulsifier that spreads tiny water droplets evenly through oil — steadies balms and oil-based formulasBarrierPoPolyglyceryl-4 CaprateA mild plant-derived emulsifier — mixes oil and water and helps disperse fragrance or oily actives into water basesBarrierPoPolyglyceryl-6 CaprylateA mild cleansing and mixing agent — lifts oils and helps oily ingredients dissolve into water-based formulasBarrierPoPolyglyceryl-6 StearateAn emulsifier — binds oil and water into a stable cream, often paired with other polyglyceryl estersBarrierPoPolyisobuteneA synthetic polymer that softens and leaves a flexible, water-resistant film — the shine in glosses and long-wear formulasBarrierPoPolysilicone-11A silicone gel that softens the look of pores and fine lines, adds velvety slip, and soaks up some oil — common in primersBarrier · 1 sourcePrPrickly Pear Seed OilA light, fast-absorbing seed oil that suits acne-prone and combination skin — pricey because the seed yield is tinyBarrierPrPropylheptyl CaprylateA lightweight softening ester — helps moisturizers and sunscreens glide on with a soft, dry-touch feelBarrierRiRice Bran WaxThe hard rice-bran wax that firms up balms and sticks — adds gloss and a thin film that slows water lossBarrierRiRice Germ OilA light oil from rice germ that softens the surface and leaves skin feeling smoothBarrierRoRosehip Seed OilA nourishing night finishing oil for dry or stressed skin. The ‘natural retinoid’ claim doesn’t hold — the retinoic acid traces are tinyBarrierSaSafflower Seed OilA light plant oil — the high-linoleic type matches the skin barrier’s fats well and absorbs with a light feelBarrier · 1 sourceSeSea Buckthorn OilA bright orange antioxidant oil — used in small amounts inside blends because the color can temporarily tint skinBarrier · 1 sourceShShea ButterA rich nut butter that seals in moisture — good for winter or a stressed barrier, but safer on the body than the face if you break outBarrierSoSodium Dilauramidoglutamide LysineAn amino-acid emulsifier that builds layered creams — they spread smoothly and mirror the structure of skin’s surface lipidsBarrierSoSorbitan TristearateA co-emulsifier — stabilizes water-in-oil formulas and helps fats and waxes set with a smoother textureBarrierSoSoybean OilA plant oil that softens and smooths skin — a common, lighter-feeling base oil in lotions and cleansersBarrierSpSphingolipidsFatty molecules related to ceramides — blend into the skin’s surface lipids for a smoother, cushioned feelBarrier · 2 sourcesSqSqualaneA light, shelf-stable version of an oil your skin already makes — softens and props up the barrier without feeling heavyBarrier · 1 sourceSqSqualeneThe unstable cousin of squalane — it oxidizes within hours of opening, and oxidized it can clog and irritate. Squalane is the one you wantBarrier · 1 sourceStStearic AcidA thickener in classic cold-cream style lotions that’s also one of skin’s own barrier fatsBarrierStStearyl AlcoholThe heavier half of cetearyl alcohol — a waxy softener that gives thick creams their cushion. Not a drying alcoholBarrierStStearyl DimethiconeA wax-like silicone — thickens balms and makeup and leaves a smooth, slightly water-repellent finishBarrierSuSucrose StearateA sugar-based emulsifier — blends oil and water into gentle creams and lotions with a smooth, light feelBarrierSuSucrose Tetrastearate TriacetateA sugar-based thickener for the oily part of a formula — gives body and even spread, often in sunscreensBarrier · 1 sourceSuSunflower OilA linoleic-rich oil that fits the barrier’s own fatty-acid profile — studied even on infant skin. Look for the high-linoleic cosmetic typeBarrier · 1 sourceSwSweet Almond OilA medium-weight nut oil with a soft feel — common in body oils and gentle face creams. Skip it if you’re allergic to tree nutsBarrierTaTamanu OilA thick, dark nut oil with rich, heavy slip — softens skin; its dense feel suits dry skin more than breakout-prone skinBarrierTrTridecaneA light hydrocarbon fluid with easy slip — dries to a non-greasy finish, often replacing volatile siliconesBarrierTrTridecyl NeopentanoateA light emollient ester — spreads easily with a smooth, non-greasy feel and resists oxidationBarrierTrTridecyl TrimellitateA thick, water-resistant softener that grips pigment, adds gloss, and helps color makeup wear longerBarrierTrTriethylhexanoinA light, non-greasy oil — spreads smoothly, softens skin, and dissolves pigments and oily activesBarrierTrTriheptanoinA light, fast-absorbing oil that softens skin with a smooth, non-greasy slip and dissolves other oily ingredientsBarrierTrTrihydroxystearinAn oil-phase thickener from castor oil — gels balms, suspends pigments, and keeps oily formulas from separatingBarrierTrTrimethylsiloxysilicateA silicone resin behind long-wear makeup and sunscreen — leaves a thin, water-resistant film that resists rub-offBarrierTrTrioleinAn oleic-rich fat like those in many plant oils — softens skin and helps slow water lossBarrierUnUndecaneA light, fast-evaporating hydrocarbon — leaves a dry, silky feel, often used in place of light silicones
SPF filters · 19
SPF filter · 4 sourcesAvAvobenzoneThe main UVA filter in US sunscreens — covers the long UVA mineral-only formulas miss. Needs a partner filter so it doesn’t break downSPF filter · 4 sourcesBeBemotrizinolOne of the best-performing chemical sun filters — broad-spectrum, stable, well tolerated. Standard abroad, not yet allowed in US sunscreensSPF filterDiDiethylhexyl SyringylidenemalonateA sunscreen helper that keeps filters like avobenzone from breaking down, so SPF holds up better over the hours after you applySPF filterEtEthylhexyl MethoxycryleneA sunscreen helper that soaks up stray energy from filters like avobenzone so they don’t break down — SPF holds up longerSPF filter · 1 sourceHoHomosalateA common UVB filter in US sunscreens, stable and well tolerated. The EU capped it at 7.34% over hormone questions raised by lab dataSPF filter · 1 sourceIrIron OxidesThe tint in tinted sunscreens — it also blocks visible light that zinc and titanium let through, so tinted SPF guards dark marks moreSPF filter · 2 sourcesIsIscotrizinolAn oil-soluble UVB filter that holds up in sunlight — cleared in the EU, Australia, and Japan, but not the USSPF filter · 2 sourcesMeMexoryl SXA water-soluble UVA filter that holds up in sunlight — standard in the EU, rare in the US where approval is brand-specificSPF filter · 2 sourcesMeMexoryl XLA broad-spectrum filter that holds up in sunlight and steadies avobenzone — common in EU sunscreens, not approved in the USSPF filter · 3 sourcesOcOctinoxateA stable UVB sunscreen filter, long one of the most-used worldwide. Some places (Hawaii, Palau) restrict it over reef concernsSPF filter · 3 sourcesOcOctisalateA UVB sunscreen filter — not much on its own, but it’s the one that keeps avobenzone from breaking down in sunlightSPF filter · 3 sourcesOcOctocryleneA UVB filter whose main job is keeping avobenzone stable in sun. A 2021 breakdown finding is debated; regulators see exposure as very lowSPF filter · 2 sourcesOxOxybenzoneAn older sunscreen filter that works, but Hawaii and other regions banned it over reef concerns, and allergy reports run higherSPF filterPhPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic AcidEnsulizole, a UVB filter that soaks up burning rays — water-soluble, so it makes light SPF textures; needs partners for UVASPF filter · 2 sourcesTiTinosorb MA hybrid filter that both absorbs and scatters UV, covering UVA and UVB — common in EU sunscreens, not yet cleared in the USSPF filter · 1 sourceTiTitanium DioxideA mineral filter that bounces UV — covers UVB and short UVA, so it’s paired with zinc for the rest. Less white cast. Fine in pregnancySPF filter · 2 sourcesUvUvinul A PlusA dedicated long-wave UVA filter that doesn’t break down in sun — common in EU and Japanese sunscreens, not yet cleared in the USSPF filter · 2 sourcesUvUvinul T 150One of the most efficient UVB filters by weight, with a light feel — common in EU sunscreens, not yet cleared in the USSPF filter · 2 sourcesZiZinc Oxide (sunscreen)The most reliably broad mineral sunscreen filter — handles UVA and UVB. Newer grinds cut the white cast mineral SPF used to leave
Soothing ingredients · 29
Soothing · 1 sourceAlAllantoinA gentle, almost universally tolerated soother — hydrates, eases irritation, nudges cell turnover. Common in sensitive-skin creamsSoothing · 1 sourceAlAloe VeraMostly water and plant sugars — a decent hydrator that cools sunburn on the surface. Some people react to raw leaf extractsSoothing · 1 sourceArArtemisia Capillaris ExtractA mugwort relative used in K-beauty for redness and reactive skin — patch-test if ragweed bothers youSoothing · 1 sourceAsAsiatic Acid & Madecassic Acid (Centella triterpene acids)The active compounds in cica — in lab dishes they raised collagen output, more so with vitamin C, but that isn’t proof on real skinSoothing · 3 sourcesAsAsiaticosideThe best-documented compound in centella — used to support skin recovery after procedures and to back up the barrierSoothing · 3 sourcesBeBeta-GlucanA sugar from oats, yeast, or mushrooms that forms a hydrating film, supports the barrier, and calms reactive skinSoothing · 1 sourceBiBifida Ferment LysateThe fermented ingredient made famous by Advanced Night Repair — small studies suggest barrier recovery after sun stressSoothing · 2 sourcesBiBisabololThe calming part of chamomile, concentrated — eases surface redness and supports the barrier. A quiet helper in sensitive-skin formulasSoothingCaCalendula ExtractA flower extract with modest evidence for calming minor irritation and redness — common in baby and sensitive-skin productsSoothing · 1 sourceCeCentella Asiatica (Cica)Cica — the calming plant extract in post-acid, post-laser, and redness-prone routines. Eases inflammation and supports repairSoothing · 1 sourceChChamomile ExtractA calming flower extract for redness and sensitivity — patch-test if daisies and ragweed bother youSoothing · 2 sourcesCoColloidal OatmealOne of the better-studied calming ingredients — used in eczema-friendly creams, after procedures, and in baby productsSoothingCuCucumber ExtractMostly water with a little vitamin C and K — a mild hydrator; the de-puffing story is really just something cool on skinSoothingFeFeverfew ExtractA calming, antioxidant-rich plant extract — supplied with parthenolide stripped out, since that compound can itself sensitize skinSoothingGlGlycyrrhetinic Acid (and derivatives)The oil-soluble licorice compound in soothing creams and balms — recognized for conditioning and calming reactive skinSoothing · 1 sourceHoHouttuynia Cordata ExtractA Korean herbal calming ingredient, often used alongside or instead of centella — limited evidence, but gentleSoothing · 1 sourceLaLactobacillus Ferment LysateA fermented-bacteria ingredient sold as “microbiome support” — realistically a mild surface soother and hydratorSoothing · 2 sourcesMaMadecassosideThe single calming molecule pulled out of cica — evidence for faster barrier recovery, less surface redness, and easier retinoid startsSoothingMaMarshmallow Root ExtractA plant mucilage that adds soft slip and a calming surface feel — light evidence, but very gentleSoothingMuMugwortA calming Korean-formula botanical with antioxidant action in lab tests — clinical evidence is limited, but most people tolerate it wellSoothing · 1 sourceNeNeem ExtractAn Ayurvedic staple that turns up in acne and scalp formulas — but one to skip in pregnancy, breastfeeding, or while trying to conceiveSoothing · 5 sourcesNiNiacinamide (Vitamin B3)The do-most-things B3 — supports the barrier, evens tone, calms oil and redness. 2–5% is the sweet spot; pairs with nearly anythingSoothing · 1 sourcePaPanthenol (Pro-vitamin B5)Vitamin B5 — hydrates, calms irritation, and supports recovery after acids, retinoids, or sunSoothing · 2 sourcesPrPropolisThe bee resin in K-beauty essences — mildly calming and antimicrobial, though evidence is thin. Standardized extracts are more reliableSoothing · 1 sourceRoRose ExtractUsually just distilled rose water — a light hydrator and a scent. It can be a fragrance allergen for some peopleSoothing · 1 sourceSaSaccharomyces Ferment FiltrateFiltered yeast ferment — SK-II’s Pitera is one version. Hydrating with a mild exfoliating edge; patch-test if yeast acne flaresSoothingSnSnail MucinThe hydrating K-beauty essence ingredient — well tolerated and moisturizing, though evidence for scar and firmness claims is limitedSoothing · 1 sourceWiWitch HazelAn astringent for oily, congested skin — the distilled kind often has 14–15% alcohol, rough on dry or rosacea-prone skinSoothing · 1 sourceZiZincTopical zinc dials down oil with mild antibacterial action — most evidence is for the niacinamide + zinc combo in oil-control serums
Everything else · 262
These don’t sit under a single function — preservatives, emulsifiers, solvents, thickeners, and the fragrance components on the EU’s 26-allergen list. The rest of what actually fills an ingredient list. They still get a page each.
IngredientAcAcacia Senegal GumA tree gum that thickens water-based formulas — its drying film gives a temporary tightening, smoothing feelIngredientAcAcetoneA fast-evaporating solvent, mostly in nail-product removers — can dry out skin and nails with frequent contactIngredientAcAcrylates CopolymerForms a light film as a product dries — locks in the finish and helps control oil and shine in primers and long-wear formulasIngredientAcAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA thickener that swells in water so creams stay uniform and gels hold their shape — it just sits on the surfaceIngredientAcAcrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate CopolymerA thickening polymer — forms a film that swells with skin oils for a long-wearing, oil-resisting finishIngredientAcAcrylates/Octylacrylamide CopolymerA film former in sunscreens and makeup — dries to a water-resistant layer that resists transferIngredientAcAcrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate CopolymerA texture polymer — thickens and stabilizes a formula, drying to a flexible film that controls spreadIngredientAcActivated CharcoalThe black-mask ingredient — dramatic looking, but it doesn’t pull toxins out of skin. Not harmful, just not the activeIngredient · 1 sourceAdAdenosineA gentle fine-lines ingredient — one placebo-controlled trial measured subtle smoothing of frown and eye lines over about 8 weeksIngredientAlAlginA gelling agent from brown seaweed — thickens formulas and sets peel-off (alginate) masksIngredient · 2 sourcesAlAlpha-Isomethyl IononeA synthetic violet-iris note in lots of modern scents — an EU-labeled fragrance allergen; skip it if fragrance bothers your skinIngredientAlAluminaA fine mineral powder that coats pigments and mineral UV filters — helps them spread evenly and improves textureIngredientAlAluminum HydroxideA mineral coating for sunscreen particles and pigments — helps them spread smoothly without clumpingIngredientAmAminomethyl PropanolA pH adjuster — raises a formula’s pH so gelling polymers like carbomer swell into a clear gelIngredientAmAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA thickener that swells in water to hold a formula together — keeps oils and pigments evenly spread, with a soft, non-tacky feelIngredient · 2 sourcesAmAmmonium Lauryl SulfateVery close to SLS — strong, rinse-clean foam, mostly in shampoos. Daily use on the face raises the odds of a dry, stressed barrierIngredient · 2 sourcesAmAmyl CinnamalA synthetic jasmine scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list — milder than cinnamal, but still disclosed. Skip if fragrance bothers youIngredient · 1 sourceAmAmylcinnamyl AlcoholA soft floral scent ingredient the EU makes brands name on the label, because a small number of people react to itIngredientAmAmylopectinThe branched form of starch — thickens formulas and leaves a soft, smooth feel on the surfaceIngredient · 2 sourcesAnAnise AlcoholThe anise-hawthorn floral note in some scents — an EU-labeled fragrance allergen, so skip it if you’ve ever reacted to fragranceIngredientArArachidyl GlucosideA gentle sugar-based mixing helper — builds and stabilizes soft, smooth oil-in-water creamsIngredientArArginineAn amino acid used to balance a formula’s acidity and hold a little water — a gentle helper rather than a headline activeIngredientBeBehentrimonium MethosulfateA mild conditioning agent in conditioners and rich creams — leaves a smoothing, detangling filmIngredient · 1 sourceBeBentonite ClayA strongly absorbent clay for oily, congested skin — too drying for dry or sensitive skin. Once a week is plentyIngredientBeBenzoic AcidA gentle preservative (also used in food) that guards mostly against yeast — works best in lower-pH formulas, often with partnersIngredient · 3 sourcesBeBenzoyl PeroxideThe acne ingredient that kills breakout bacteria — 2.5% works as well as 10% with less irritation. Common in spot gels and washesIngredient · 2 sourcesBeBenzyl AlcoholDoubles as a solvent and a preservative. It’s on the EU’s list of 26 fragrance allergens, so fragrance-sensitive skin can react to itIngredient · 2 sourcesBeBenzyl BenzoateA sweet-balsamic fragrance ingredient the EU makes brands name on the label — among the more common causes of fragrance allergyIngredient · 1 sourceBeBenzyl CinnamateA sweet, balsamic scent from natural resins — EU-labeled because it can cause allergic reactions in some peopleIngredient · 1 sourceBeBenzyl SalicylateA soft floral-balsamic scent ingredient that makes fragrance last — EU-labeled because a minority of people react to itIngredient · 1 sourceBeBergamot OilThe earl-grey-tea citrus oil — cold-pressed bergamot is phototoxic in sunlight, so look for the bergapten-free (FCF) versionIngredientBeBeta-CaroteneThe orange-yellow plant pigment that adds natural color and keeps oils from going rancid — color and stability, not a skin claimIngredientBiBiotinVitamin B7 — well-known orally for nails and hair; topical skin evidence is thin, making it more of a supporting ingredient in most formulasIngredient · 1 sourceBiBitter Orange OilCold-pressed bitter-orange peel oil — phototoxic in sun, same as bergamot and lime; not the same thing as sweet orange oilIngredientBuButylene/Ethylene/Styrene CopolymerA rubbery oil-phase thickener — binds sticks and balms together with a smooth, cushioned feelIngredient · 1 sourceBuButylphenyl MethylpropionalA lily-scented fragrance (Lilial) banned in the EU in 2022 over safety concerns — scent only, no skin functionIngredientCaCalcium ChlorideA simple calcium salt — sets peel-off (alginate) masks and helps fine-tune a formula’s thicknessIngredientCaCaprylhydroxamic AcidKeeps germs out of a product and binds stray metals across a wide pH — the workhorse in “preservative-free” style systemsIngredientCaCaprylyl/Capryl GlucosideA mild sugar-based cleanser that makes a soft foam — gentle enough for sensitive-skin and baby washes; also helps mix in oilsIngredient · 1 sourceCaCapsaicinThe chili-pepper compound behind warmth and burn — a documented rosacea flush trigger, even in low-level “lip plumper” formulasIngredientCaCarbomerThe polymer that turns water into a clear gel — behind most see-through toners, essences, and gel creams. Rarely irritatingIngredientCeCellulosePlant fiber as a fine powder — absorbs oil, adds a soft feel, and stands in for plastic micro-particlesIngredientCeCellulose GumA plant-derived thickener for water-based gels, cleansers, and lotions — adds slip, stays on the surface, and rinses awayIngredientCeCeteareth-20A very common emulsifier that keeps oil and water mixed into a smooth cream — it can also blend a little oil into watery formulasIngredientCeCetearyl GlucosideA plant-derived emulsifier from fatty alcohols and sugars — blends oil and water into a stable cream with a soft feelIngredientCeCetearyl OlivateAn olive-derived emulsifier that blends oil and water and gives a cream body — a sensitive-skin favorite with sorbitan olivateIngredientCeCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 DimethiconeA silicone-based emulsifier — keeps water dispersed in silicone bases like some primers and long-wear productsIngredientChChlorphenesinA preservative that handles bacteria and fungi, usually teamed with phenoxyethanol — small amounts, purely to keep a product safeIngredientCiCI 15850 (Red 7 Lake)A synthetic red dye, usually a mineral-bound lake for lipsticks and blushes — its only job is color, with no skin-care effectIngredientCiCI 15985 (Yellow 6 / Sunset Yellow FCF)Sunset Yellow FCF — a synthetic yellow dye (FD&C Yellow No. 6) used purely for color, with no documented skin-care effectIngredientCiCI 16035 (Red 40 / Allura Red AC)Allura Red AC — the most widely used red colorant in food, drugs, and cosmetics. In skincare it is purely for colorIngredientCiCI 17200 (Red 33)A synthetic red dye (D&C Red No. 33) common in cosmetics and bath products — its only job is color, no skin-care effectIngredientCiCI 19140 (Yellow 5 / Tartrazine)Tartrazine — a synthetic yellow dye (FD&C Yellow No. 5) used purely for color, in either water- or oil-based formulasIngredientCiCI 26100 (Red 17 / Solvent Red 23)An oil-soluble synthetic red dye (D&C Red No. 17) used to color the oily part of creams and makeup — color onlyIngredientCiCI 42090 (Blue 1)A synthetic blue dye (FD&C Blue No. 1) that does one job: color. No documented skin-care effectIngredient · 2 sourcesCiCinnamal (Cinnamic Aldehyde)The cinnamon-stick scent — one of the strongest of the EU’s 26 fragrance allergens, and flagged as a rosacea triggerIngredient · 1 sourceCiCinnamyl AlcoholA sweet, balsamic cinnamon-like scent — one of the fragrance compounds the EU makes brands label, since it can cause allergic reactionsIngredient · 2 sourcesCiCitralA lemony scent from citrus and lemongrass oils, on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip it if fragrance bothers youIngredient · 2 sourcesCiCitronellolA rose-floral scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list that cross-reacts with geraniol. Skip it if fragrance bothers youIngredient · 2 sourcesClClary Sage OilAn essential oil to avoid in pregnancy — it influences hormones and is traditionally used to bring on labor. Otherwise a mild scent oilIngredient · 1 sourceCoCocamidopropyl BetaineThe coconut-derived helper surfactant — adds foam, thickens, and softens harsher cleansers. Occasionally an allergen from leftoversIngredientCoCocamidopropyl HydroxysultaineA gentle coconut-derived foaming agent — makes cleansers milder, creamier, and softer-foamingIngredient · 1 sourceCoCoco GlucosideA gentle coconut-and-corn-sugar cleanser in the same mild tier as decyl glucoside — kind to eczema, rosacea, and damaged barriersIngredientCoCoco-BetaineA gentle coconut-derived cleansing agent — boosts foam and softens the effect of stronger surfactantsIngredient · 2 sourcesCoCoumarinA sweet hay and tonka-bean scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip it if fragrance bothers youIngredientCyCyclodextrinRing-shaped sugar molecules with a hollow center — stabilize fragile ingredients and trap odor moleculesIngredient · 1 sourceDeDecyl GlucosideA sugar-based gentle cleanser that foams less and doesn’t strip the barrier — the base of many fragrance-free and baby-safe washesIngredientDeDehydroacetic AcidA preservative that covers bacteria, mold, and yeast — usually teamed with benzyl alcohol, in small amounts, to keep a product safeIngredientDeDenatured AlcoholThe fast-drying carrier that makes toners feel light. Fine low on the label; in the first three spots, daily use can dry and stress skinIngredientDeDextrinA plant-starch binder and carrier that soaks up a little oil and can leave a soft, matte, powdery feel — no skin claim of its ownIngredient · 1 sourceDiDiazolidinyl UreaA formaldehyde-releasing preservative that releases more than its sibling imidazolidinyl urea — a recurring skin allergen; skip if sensitiveIngredientDiDimethicone CrosspolymerThe silky silicone in many primers — smooths, soaks up some oil for a matte touch, and blurs the look of fine textureIngredientDiDimethyl IsosorbideA sugar-derived solvent — dissolves tricky ingredients and helps carry them into the upper skin layersIngredientDiDipotassium GlycyrrhizateA water-soluble licorice-root ingredient used to condition skin — popular in formulas aimed at sensitive, easily-irritated skinIngredientDiDisodium CocoamphodiacetateA gentle coconut-derived cleanser — makes a soft foam and softens the bite of stronger cleansing agentsIngredientDiDisodium EDTAGrabs stray metal ions that would speed spoilage or break down actives — it protects the formula, it doesn’t act on your skinIngredient · 1 sourceDiDisodium Laureth SulfosuccinateA mild foaming cleanser for brands that want lather without the strip of SLS. Well tolerated, and not tied to sulfate drynessIngredientDiDisodium Lauryl SulfosuccinateA mild cleansing agent — lifts away oil and dirt with a soft foam; considered gentler than harsher sulfatesIngredientDiDisodium PhosphateA buffer salt that holds a formula at a steady pH — protects ingredient performance and keeps it comfortableIngredientDiDistarch PhosphateA modified plant starch — thickens, soaks up excess oil, and leaves a soft, powdery, matte feelIngredientDiDisteardimonium HectoriteA modified clay for oil-based and waterproof makeup — thickens the oil phase and keeps pigments evenly suspendedIngredient · 1 sourceDmDMDM HydantoinA preservative that slowly releases formaldehyde — fine for most, but skip it if you’ve flagged a preservative sensitivityIngredientEsEssential OilsA browsing label, not a safety call — the class runs from gentle chamomile to potent allergens. Drop flags each oil on its own entryIngredientEtEthoxydiglycolA solvent that dissolves both watery and oily ingredients — keeps tricky mixes even and helps them spreadIngredientEtEthyl AcetateThe fast-evaporating solvent in nail polish and removers — shows up occasionally in skincare as a processing solventIngredientEtEthylene/Propylene/Styrene CopolymerA rubbery oil-soluble thickener — gels the oil phase and improves the glide and structure of sticks and balmsIngredient · 1 sourceEtEthylhexylglycerinA helper that strengthens the main preservative and lightly conditions skin, letting formulas use less preservative. Rarely a problemIngredientEtEthylparabenA paraben preservative — small amounts keep a product free of bacteria, mold, and yeast over its shelf lifeIngredientEuEucalyptus OilThe sharp, cooling scent in some products — a fragrance oil, and like other essential oils it can irritate or sensitize some skinIngredient · 2 sourcesEuEugenolThe clove scent in clove and cinnamon oils — one of the more common of the EU’s 26 fragrance allergensIngredient · 1 sourceEvEvernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) ExtractA mossy, resinous fragrance from lichen — the single most common of the EU-26 fragrance allergens on patch testingIngredient · 1 sourceEvEvernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) ExtractA mossy, woody fragrance from lichen — one of the most common fragrance allergens, so the EU banned its two key allergensIngredient · 1 sourceFaFarnesolA soft, sweet floral scent — one of the fragrance compounds the EU makes brands label, since it can cause allergic reactionsIngredient · 1 sourceFiFig ExtractFig sap and skin carry the same sun-reactive compounds as citrus peel — documented severe rashes from fig contact plus sunIngredientFoFolic AcidVitamin B9 in a bottle — included on the idea it supports skin cells’ DNA repair, but human evidence for the topical form is sparseIngredient · 3 sourcesFrFragranceOne label for hundreds of scent chemicals, added for smell, not skin benefit — some are known sensitizers. Sensitive skin does best withoutIngredient · 2 sourcesGeGeraniolA rose-scented molecule on the EU’s 26-allergen list — one of the more common fragrance allergens in patch testingIngredientGeGeranium OilSweet, rose-like floral scent — a fragrance oil, and like other essential oils it can irritate or sensitize some skinIngredientGlGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerA water-loving film former in masks and gels — dries clear and flexible and helps hold water at the surfaceIngredientGlGlyceryl CaprylateHelps oil and water blend and is mildly germ-fighting, so formulas can lean on less preservative — soft skin feel, quiet jobIngredientGlGlyceryl PolymethacrylateA water-holding polymer — forms a light, smooth film and adds slip and body to gel texturesIngredientGlGlyceryl Stearate CitrateAn emulsifier from glycerin, a fatty acid, and citric acid — keeps creams blended; picked for gentle sensitive-skin formulasIngredientGoGold (Colloidal / CI 77480)Luxury-positioned gold particles — published evidence for a skin benefit is essentially absent; gold sits inert on the surfaceIngredientGrGrapefruit OilFresh, slightly bitter citrus scent from grapefruit peel — a fragrance oil that may raise sun sensitivityIngredientHdHDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone CrosspolymerTiny light-scattering spheres — soften the look of pores and fine lines, add powdery slip, and soak up some oilIngredientHeHexadecene CopolymerAn oil-soluble texture polymer — thickens the oil phase with a smooth, non-greasy slipIngredient · 2 sourcesHeHexyl CinnamalA soft jasmine scent used all over personal care, on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip it if fragrance bothers youIngredient · 1 sourceHyHydrocortisoneA low-strength steroid cream that calms itch and inflammation short-term — not a routine step; ongoing face use is a derm callIngredientHyHydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant that helps a product’s preservatives work better — marketed as soothing, but its real job is formula freshnessIngredient · 2 sourcesHyHydroxycitronellalA lily-of-the-valley scent synthetic — one of the more common of the EU’s 26 fragrance allergens in patch testingIngredientHyHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerA thickener that builds a smooth gel to hold creams and gels together — gives a light, silky texture instead of a heavy oneIngredientHyHydroxyethylcelluloseA plant-derived thickener that turns water-based formulas into a clear, smooth gel and keeps other ingredients evenly suspendedIngredient · 1 sourceHyHydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene CarboxaldehydeA muguet-scented fragrance (Lyral) banned in the EU — it was one of the most common causes of fragrance allergyIngredientHyHydroxypropyl MethylcelluloseA plant-cellulose thickener (HPMC) — builds smooth gels, stabilizes foams, and dries to a light filmIngredientHyHydroxypropyl Starch PhosphateA modified plant starch that thickens formulas — leaves a soft, powdery, non-tacky finish that cuts greasinessIngredientIlIllite (Green Clay)The French green clay in masks — binds oil and debris so they rinse away. Fine 1–2 times a week; daily use can dry skin outIngredient · 1 sourceImImidazolidinyl UreaA formaldehyde-releasing preservative, the classic paraben partner — fine for most; skip it if preservatives bother your skinIngredient · 2 sourcesIsIsoeugenolA close relative of eugenol with a similar allergy profile, on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip if fragrance bothers youIngredientIsIsopropyl AlcoholA fast-evaporating solvent — helps products dry quickly and feel less tacky; can be drying in high amountsIngredientIsIsopropyl Titanium TriisostearateA coating for mineral pigments and UV particles — makes them water-repellent so they spread evenly and wear betterIngredient · 1 sourceKaKaolin ClayThe gentlest common face clay — soaks up surface oil without the harsh pull of bentonite. Good for normal to dry skinIngredientLaLaureth-7A mixing helper that disperses oils into water-based formulas — supports stability and thickeningIngredientLaLauroyl LysineFine platelets from lauric acid and lysine — coat pigments and add a soft, silky slip in makeupIngredient · 1 sourceLaLauryl GlucosideA mild sugar-based cleanser common in baby washes and low-pH sensitive-skin formulas — friendlier to a stressed barrier than sulfatesIngredientLaLauryl HydroxysultaineA gentle co-cleanser — cleans, builds stable foam, and softens the bite of stronger cleansing agentsIngredient · 2 sourcesLaLavender OilA scent oil with hormone-like activity linked to breast growth in young boys — avoid in pregnancy and before puberty. Also a top allergenIngredient · 1 sourceLeLemon OilCold-pressed lemon-peel oil — phototoxic in sun, though less than bergamot; steam-distilled lemon oil is the safer pickIngredientLeLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateFermented radish root that makes its own germ-fighting compounds — a natural-positioned way to help keep a formula freshIngredientLeLevulinic AcidA plant-sugar acid that fine-tunes a formula’s pH — paired with sodium levulinate, it helps keep formulas freshIngredient · 1 sourceLiLime OilCold-pressed lime-peel oil — one of the most phototoxic citrus oils; lime plus sun is behind the classic “margarita” rashIngredient · 2 sourcesLiLimoneneA citrus-peel scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list — it oxidizes with age into the actual irritant. Skip if fragrance bothers youIngredient · 2 sourcesLiLinaloolA lavender-and-bergamot scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list — aged batches are the sensitizer. Skip if fragrance bothers youIngredientLiLinalyl AcetateThe sweet, fresh floral note found in lavender and bergamot — a fragrance compound that can irritate or sensitize some skinIngredientLiLithothamnion Calcareum ExtractA calcified red algae used as a mineral source — calcium, magnesium, and trace elements, with a slightly chalky feelIngredientMaMagnesium Aluminum SilicateA purified clay — thickens formulas, suspends pigments, and keeps emulsions from separatingIngredientMaMagnesium StearateA powder binder — holds pressed powders together, helps them stick to skin, and adds a smooth, slippery feelIngredientMaMagnesium SulfateEpsom salt, used here as a texture and stability aid — a pinch locks water-in-oil creams together and controls how thick they areIngredientMaMaltodextrinA plant-starch carbohydrate used to carry other ingredients, smooth the finish, and steady texture — a benign background helperIngredientMaMandarin Orange OilSoft, sweet citrus scent from mandarin peel — a fragrance oil that can carry compounds which may raise sun sensitivityIngredient · 1 sourceMeMentholThe cooling “tingle” in refreshing formulas — a documented rosacea flare trigger, and it often stings on a damaged barrierIngredientMeMenthyl LactateThe gentle, long-lasting cooling feel in some products — much less minty smell and sting than menthol itselfIngredientMeMethiconeA silicone coating for pigments and mineral powders — helps tinted and powder products apply smoothlyIngredient · 1 sourceMeMethyl 2-OctynoateA sharp green, violet-leaf scent — EU-labeled because it can cause allergic reactions, and IFRA caps how much can be usedIngredient · 1 sourceMeMethylisothiazolinoneMI, a preservative that became one of the top contact allergens — EU-banned in leave-ons; avoid if preservatives bother youIngredient · 1 sourceMeMethylparabenOne of the longest-studied preservatives, used at tiny amounts. The scare studies used doses far above skin exposure; regulators allow itIngredientMiMicaA finely milled mineral that bounces light for a subtle glow or soft-focus finish — purely cosmetic, and it stays on the surfaceIngredientMiMicrocrystalline CellulosePurified plant cellulose milled fine — thickens, soaks up a little oil, and gives a smooth blurring feel; stays on the surfaceIngredient · 1 sourceNiNiacin (vitamin B3)Not niacinamide — applied to skin, niacin causes flushing and warmth instead. Niacinamide is the useful form; labels mix the two up oftenIngredientNyNylon-12Tiny round particles that soak up surface oil, add silky slip, and blur the look of texture in powders and primersIngredient · 1 sourcePaParsley ExtractA parsley botanical that turns up in brightening or detox formulas — carries the same sun-reactive compounds as citrus peel oilsIngredientPaPatchouli OilThe deep, earthy scent that also makes a fragrance last longer — a scent oil that can sensitize some skinIngredientPePectinThe gelling sugar from fruit — thickens water-based formulas and stabilizes texturesIngredientPePEG-100 StearateAn emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended in a stable cream — almost always listed next to glyceryl stearateIngredientPePEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor-oil-derived helper that dissolves oils and fragrance into watery formulas so toners and micellar waters stay clearIngredientPePEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilA solubilizer — lets drops of oil or fragrance dissolve clearly into watery products like toners and micellar watersIngredientPePentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateAn antioxidant that keeps a formula’s oils from going rancid or changing color — a stability helper, not a skin activeIngredientPePentasodium TriphosphateA stability salt — binds trace metals that speed spoilage or color change, and can buffer pHIngredient · 1 sourcePePeppermint OilEssential oil that’s 35–55% menthol — a heavier cooling load, so the same rosacea flush risk, plus fragrance allergensIngredientPhPhenethyl AlcoholA softly floral alcohol found in roses — supports the preservative system and adds scentIngredient · 1 sourcePhPhenoxyethanolThe industry’s default preservative — keeps water-based products from growing bacteria and mold at 0.5–1.0%. Reactions are uncommonIngredientPiPineneThe fresh, piney note in pine and many essential oils — a fragrance compound that can irritate or sensitize some skinIngredientPiPiroctone OlamineAn antifungal used mostly in scalp and hair products — limits the yeast linked to dandruff and flakingIngredientPoPoloxamer 184A gentle cleansing helper — dissolves oils and fragrance into watery formulas and cleans without harshnessIngredientPoPolyacrylamideA synthetic thickener and stabilizer — keeps oil and water mixed and lays a thin film for a smoother feelIngredientPoPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A gelling polymer for water-based formulas — builds body with a light, fresh, powdery, non-tacky feelIngredientPoPolyacrylate-13A quick-thickening polymer — builds a smooth gel, suspends particles, and keeps oil and water mixedIngredientPoPolyaminopropyl BiguanideA preservative (PHMB) — keeps water-containing formulas from spoiling, working at very low concentrationsIngredientPoPolyethyleneA synthetic wax that thickens balms and sticks — its micro-bead forms are phased out of rinse-off products in many marketsIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-10 LaurateA mild mixing helper — dissolves fragrance and small amounts of oil into water-based formulasIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-10 StearateA gentle helper that blends oils into water-based creams and lotions — keeps them stable with a smooth feelIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-2 DipolyhydroxystearateA mixing helper for richer creams and balms — keeps water droplets dispersed in oil for a stable, cushioned bodyIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateAn emulsifier for balms and cleansing oils — holds water droplets inside oil-rich formulas and keeps them stableIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-3 DiisostearateA mixing helper for richer creams and sunscreens — keeps water dispersed in oil and spreads pigments evenlyIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose DistearateA mild plant-derived emulsifier that blends oil and water into a stable cream — light, soft feel; a sensitive-skin favoriteIngredientPoPolyglyceryl-6 BehenateA plant-derived emulsifier — blends oil and water into a stable cream with a smooth bodyIngredientPoPolyhydroxystearic AcidCoats mineral particles like zinc and titanium dioxide so they spread into an even film instead of clumping or streakingIngredientPoPolymethyl MethacrylateTiny smooth polymer spheres — fill in fine texture, scatter light for a soft-focus look, and add silky slipIngredientPoPolymethylsilsesquioxaneMicroscopic silicone beads that roll on for a silky glide, blur the surface, and soak up a little oil for a matte finishIngredientPoPolysorbate 20The helper that lets fragrance and other oils dissolve into clear toners and mists — the lightest of the polysorbatesIngredientPoPolysorbate 60A sorbitol-derived emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended in creams and can mix fragrance or oil into lighter formulasIngredientPoPolysorbate 80A mixing helper that dissolves small amounts of oil or fragrance into clear, water-based formulasIngredientPoPolyvinyl Alcohol (PVA)The film-former behind peel-off masks — dries into one peelable sheet, and also thickens formulasIngredientPoPolyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)A water-soluble polymer — dries to a clear film, keeps pigments suspended, and helps set a product in placeIngredientPoPotassium Cetyl PhosphateAn emulsifier that keeps oil and water evenly mixed — common in sunscreens and lotions, where even spreading mattersIngredientPoPotassium HydroxideA pH adjuster much like sodium hydroxide — tiny, already-neutralized amounts; in some cleansers it makes a mild liquid soapIngredientPoPotassium PhosphateA buffer salt — holds a formula near its target pH so ingredients keep performing and feel comfortable on skinIngredientPoPotassium SorbateThe antifungal half of a common natural-formula preservative pair — works below pH 5 and needs a partner to cover bacteriaIngredientPpPPG-26-Buteth-26A solubilizer — dissolves small amounts of oily ingredients, like fragrance, into clear water basesIngredientPrPropylene CarbonateA helper for clay thickeners like bentonite — lets the clay swell into a smooth gel instead of gritty clumpsIngredient · 1 sourcePrPropylparabenThe antifungal partner to methylparaben, capped at 0.14% in the EU. Strong record on skin — the marketing fear outruns the regulatory viewIngredientPuPullulanA fermented sugar that dries into a thin, flexible film — a smooth, momentarily taut feel on the skinIngredient · 1 sourceQuQuaternium-15The formaldehyde-releasing preservative that has topped patch-test allergy rankings — the first label name to screen if you reactIngredientRoRosewood OilSoft woody-floral scent, high in linalool — a fragrance oil whose compounds can sensitize some skinIngredientScSclerotium GumA fermented thickener that turns water-based formulas into a smooth gel — silky, non-sticky, and gentleIngredient · 1 sourceSiSilicaA powder that soaks up oil and softly blurs the look of skin — that’s the primer effect. Rarely causes reactionsIngredientSoSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerA polymer that turns watery formulas into a smooth, stable gel — light, non-tacky feel even at tiny dosesIngredientSoSodium Acrylates CopolymerThe thickener that turns water into a smooth gel — keeps particles suspended and oil and water mixedIngredientSoSodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA pre-neutralized gel thickener — swells in water to thicken, suspend particles, and hold emulsions togetherIngredientSoSodium AnisateA milder preservation helper from anise and fennel — keeps bacteria, mold, and yeast from spoiling a productIngredient · 1 sourceSoSodium BenzoateA preservative that stops mold and yeast in low-pH water formulas — only works below about pH 5, so it’s paired with potassium sorbateIngredientSoSodium C14-16 Olefin SulfonateA strong-foaming cleansing agent in body washes — lifts away oil and dirt, more cleansing-forward than amino-acid surfactantsIngredientSoSodium CarbomerA pre-neutralized gelling polymer — thickens water-based gels and serums and holds ingredients in suspensionIngredientSoSodium Cetearyl SulfateA mixing helper that keeps creams stable and thick — used for structure here, not as a harsh foaming cleanserIngredientSoSodium ChlorideTable salt — a pinch thickens certain cleansers or steadies a mix; one of the most harmless things on a label, with no skin claimIngredientSoSodium CitrateA behind-the-scenes pH buffer that holds a formula steady so actives keep working — usually paired with citric acidIngredientSoSodium Cocoyl GlutamateA gentle coconut-and-amino-acid cleanser — lifts oil and dirt with a soft lather while staying mild on the barrierIngredient · 1 sourceSoSodium Cocoyl IsethionateThe surfactant behind gentle bars and foaming face washes that still lather — much milder than SLS, with a creamier foamIngredientSoSodium DehydroacetateA preservative that holds back mold, yeast, and some bacteria — often paired with benzyl alcoholIngredientSoSodium GluconateA glucose-derived metal binder that keeps a formula stable and well-preserved — biodegradable and mildIngredientSoSodium HydroxideThe pH adjuster that dials a formula to its target range — it ends up as a trace amount, so seeing it low on a label is normalIngredientSoSodium IsethionateA mild cleansing agent — gives a soft, creamy lather that lifts away oil and dirt more gently than harsher detergentsIngredient · 1 sourceSoSodium Laureth SulfateA softened SLS — same foam and cleaning, less irritation. On dry or stressed skin it can still feel tight, so follow with moisturizerIngredientSoSodium Lauroyl LactylateA gentle helper that keeps oil and water mixed — adds a soft, conditioned feel; common in mild formulasIngredientSoSodium Lauroyl SarcosinateA mild cleanser made from lauric acid — lifts oil and dirt with a soft foam, gentler than many sulfatesIngredient · 3 sourcesSoSodium Lauryl SulfateThe high-foam cleanser workhorse — strips oil well, and a documented irritant. As a face wash’s main surfactant, it’s the tight-skin culpritIngredientSoSodium LevulinateA plant-sugar-derived salt that helps keep formulas fresh — often paired with sodium anisate as a gentle preservativeIngredientSoSodium MetaphosphateA stability helper — steadies a formula’s pH and ties up trace metals that would speed spoilage or discolorationIngredient · 1 sourceSoSodium Methyl Cocoyl TaurateA mild foaming cleanser that rinses clean without residue — a favorite in J- and K-beauty washes, gentle enough for daily use on dry skinIngredientSoSodium PhosphateA pH buffer salt — keeps a formula at its intended acidity so other ingredients stay stableIngredientSoSodium PhytateA plant-seed-derived metal binder that keeps a formula stable and true in color — the pick for brands skipping synthetic EDTAIngredientSoSodium PolyacrylateA super water-absorbent polymer — a pinch swells into a smooth gel that thickens, steadies a mix, and feels light and silkyIngredientSoSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateA gel-making thickener in serums and creams — suspends particles and stabilizes emulsions across a wide pH rangeIngredientSoSodium Stearoyl GlutamateA mild emulsifier from an amino acid and a fatty acid — keeps lotions blended; a favorite in gentle fragrance-free formulasIngredientSoSodium Stearoyl LactylateA gentle helper that keeps oil and water mixed — soft, conditioned feel; common in mild formulasIngredientSoSodium SulfateA simple salt — fine-tunes the thickness of cleansers and balances a formula’s salt levelIngredientSoSorbic AcidA gentle preservative (also used in food) that mainly guards against mold and yeast — works best in lower-pH formulasIngredientSoSorbitan IsostearateA gentle emulsifier that keeps lotions, creams, and cleansing oils smooth and uniform — it works on texture, not on your skinIngredientSoSorbitan OleateA helper that keeps oil and water mixed in creams and makeup — structure only, it doesn’t act on skinIngredientSoSorbitan OlivateAn olive-derived emulsifier that holds a cream together — paired with cetearyl olivate for a light, well-tolerated feelIngredientSoSorbitan StearateA mixing helper that keeps creams and lotions from separating — usually paired with a partner emulsifierIngredientSpSpearmint OilSweet, mild minty scent, softer than peppermint — a fragrance and flavor oil that can irritate some skinIngredientStSteareth-20A mixing helper that lets oil and water blend into a stable cream — often paired with a partner emulsifierIngredientStStyrene/Acrylates CopolymerTiny polymer beads — scatter light to make a formula look milky or pearly and help carry pigmentsIngredientSuSuccinoglycanA fermented sugar thickener — smooth gel, suspends particles, steadies formulas, with a lighter feel than xanthan gumIngredientSwSweet Orange OilCitrus scent pressed from orange peel — a fragrance oil that can carry compounds which may raise sun sensitivityIngredientSySynthetic FluorphlogopiteLab-made mica — reflects light evenly for shimmer or a soft-focus finish and carries pigments smoothlyIngredientSySynthetic WaxA lab-made wax picked for purity and consistency — gives balms, sticks, and rich creams their structure; no skin claim attachedIngredientTbt-Butyl AlcoholA fast-evaporating solvent and denaturant — the bitter additive that makes a formula’s alcohol undrinkableIngredientTaTalcA finely milled mineral — absorbs oil, adds silky slip, and smooths the look of texture; cosmetic-grade is asbestos-freeIngredientTaTangerine OilLight, sweet citrus scent from tangerine peel or leaves — a fragrance oil that may raise sun sensitivityIngredientTaTapioca StarchA fine plant powder that soaks up surface oil for a soft, velvety matte feel — the natural swap for silica in rich formulasIngredientTaTara GumA seed-based thickener — adds smooth body and keeps emulsions and suspended bits from separatingIngredient · 2 sourcesTeTea Tree OilAn acne oil with real antibacterial evidence — 5% compared well to benzoyl peroxide, slower but less drying. Used undiluted it causes rashesIngredientTeTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateAn amino-acid-derived metal binder that keeps stray metals from spoiling a formula — a more biodegradable EDTA alternativeIngredientTeTetrasodium IminodisuccinateA more biodegradable alternative to EDTA — binds trace metals that would speed up spoilage or discolorationIngredientTiTin OxideA mineral powder used in shimmer products — sharpens pearlescent sparkle and helps color spread evenlyIngredientTrTriacontanyl PVPA wax-like polymer for long-wear products — gels the oil phase and helps films resist water and rub-offIngredientTrTriethanolamineA mild base used in small amounts to set a formula’s pH and turn carbomer thickeners into a gel — not an activeIngredientTrTriethoxycaprylylsilaneA coating for mineral sunscreen particles and pigments — keeps them spreading smoothly instead of clumpingIngredientTrTriethyl CitrateA citric-acid ester that keeps films flexible — light conditioned feel; can help curb odor-causing bacteriaIngredientTrTrisodium EDTABinds stray metal ions that would spoil a product or weaken its preservatives — it protects the formula, not your skinIngredientTrTrisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateA biodegradable stand-in for EDTA — it binds stray metals that would spoil a formula and helps preservatives workIngredientTrTromethamineA mild base used in small amounts to steady a formula’s pH — often there to turn carbomer thickeners into a proper gelIngredientVaVA/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate CopolymerA film former often paired with sunscreen filters — dries to a water-resistant layer that keeps UV filters evenly in placeIngredientVaVanillinThe compound that gives vanilla its sweet, warm scent — a fragrance ingredient that can sensitize some skinIngredientVpVP/Eicosene CopolymerAn oil-loving film former that helps sunscreen or makeup resist sweat and water — also spreads pigments and filters evenlyIngredientVpVP/Hexadecene CopolymerA film former that helps sunscreen and makeup last longer and resist water — wear and texture, not a skin activeIngredient · 1 sourceXaXanthan GumA fermented-sugar thickener that works at low pH, so it’s the go-to for acid serums and “clean” formulasIngredientYlYlang-Ylang OilRich, sweet floral scent from cananga flowers — a fragrance oil that can irritate or sensitize some skinIngredientZeZea Mays (Corn) StarchCorn starch — absorbs surface oil and moisture and adds a soft, powdery, matte slipIngredient · 1 sourceZiZinc PCAZinc plus a hydrator, aimed at oily and acne-prone skin — it can ease oil over time, gradually and modestlyIngredientZiZinc SulfateA soluble zinc salt — gives a mild tightening (astringent) effect on the skin’s surface in low amounts
226 of these carry a resolved source — the rest say so rather than guess
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