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Drop · Ingredients

Every ingredient we know, and what the evidence says.

706 ingredients, grouped by what they actually do. Open any one to see the graded evidence — and where there isn’t any yet, an honest blank instead of a claim.

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706 of 706 shown

Actives · 33

The active ingredients — retinol, acids, vitamin C, the ones that do something.

ActiveAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11A synthetic acetylated peptide added for proposed keratin support — supplier-funded evidence; independent trials are sparse ActiveAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2A synthetic four-amino-acid peptide added for a proposed skin-renewal mechanism — independent human trials on it are limited Active · 4 sourcesAdapaleneA gentler vitamin A aimed at acne — 0.1% sits on the shelf in the US, 0.3% needs a prescription. Give it 12 weeks or more Active · 1 sourceAlpha ArbutinA gentler brightener than hydroquinone that blocks the enzyme step behind melanin — often stacked with niacinamide or vitamin C Active · 2 sourcesArbutinA gentler brightener that blocks the enzyme step behind melanin. The alpha form is the more stable one, and the one most modern products use Active · 3 sourcesArgirelineThe ‘topical Botox’ peptide — the real-world effect on expression lines is subtle and independent evidence is thin. Not an injectable swap Active · 3 sourcesAzelaic AcidA gentle multitasker for acne, redness, and dark spots — one of the few actives considered fine in pregnancy. 10% OTC, more by prescription Active · 1 sourceBakuchiolA plant alternative to retinoids — one study found it comparable to 0.5% retinol with less flaking. Pregnancy data is still limited Active · 2 sourcesCopper Peptides (GHK-Cu)A copper-carrying peptide sold for skin repair and aging. After laser treatment it did no better than plain care in the one trial Drop read Active · 1 sourceHexapeptide-11A yeast-derived peptide tested only on cells in a dish. No study Drop has read tested it on skin or reported how skin tolerates it Active · 3 sourcesHydroquinoneThe strong dark-spot fader for melasma and post-acne marks. Runs in finite courses, not continuously — your prescriber sets the schedule Active · 2 sourcesHydroxypinacolone RetinoateA gentler retinoid (sold as Granactive Retinoid) that skips the conversion steps. Thinner evidence than retinol; still skipped in pregnancy Active · 2 sourcesIsotretinoinA pill for severe nodular acne, usually for 15–20 weeks, with side effects that need close monitoring — not a shelf ingredient Active · 1 sourceKojic AcidA fungus-derived brightener for melasma and dark marks, used at 1–4%. Stronger amounts can make skin reactive over time Active · 1 sourceLicorice Root ExtractThe most-studied herbal remedy for melasma, though the trials are few, and some people who used it had redness or a skin allergy Active · 2 sourcesMatrixylA brand-name signal peptide sold for collagen support — in one 4-month trial it reduced wrinkle depth versus a plain cream Active · 2 sourcesMatrixyl 3000A branded pair of signaling peptides for fine lines and firmness — maker studies show modest effects over 8–12 weeks Active · 2 sourcesPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7A peptide promoted for both calming and fine lines — mostly on maker studies; usually paired up in Matrixyl 3000 Active · 2 sourcesPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1A signaling peptide promoted for supporting collagen — modest effects over months in maker studies, moderate outside evidence ActivePalmitoyl Tripeptide-5A synthetic peptide sold as a collagen signal — the proposed mechanism is the pitch, but independent trials on it are sparse Active · 2 sourcesPeptidesMessenger molecules in firming serums — some signal collagen, some carry minerals, some relax expression lines. Evidence varies by peptide Active · 1 sourceResorcinolResorcinol derivatives. One, thiamidol, was the strongest human-tyrosinase blocker in a lab screen and helped melasma in a trial.Active · 2 sourcesRetinaldehydeVitamin A one step from active — some studies suggest it works faster than retinol, with similar tolerance. Rare; hard to keep stable Active · 10 sourcesRetinolThe vitamin A in many night serums — speeds up cell turnover and supports collagen. Takes 12 weeks or more; flaking early on Active · 2 sourcesRetinyl palmitateThe mildest vitamin A, common in moisturizers and SPF — rarely irritates, but evidence for visible benefit is limited Active · 1 sourcesh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF)Lab-made EGF, a signal tied to skin repair and turnover — it’s a big molecule, so most of it likely stays on the surface Activesh-Oligopeptide-2Lab-made TGF-β peptide used in K-beauty growth-factor serums — penetration of large peptides is limited, so benefit claims are debated Activesh-Oligopeptide-3 (IGF-1)Lab-made IGF-1 peptide in K-beauty growth-factor serums — paired with EGF, with the same penetration debate Active · 1 sourceSyn-AkeA peptide sold as a needle-free wrinkle relaxer — evidence is weak; expect mild surface smoothing, not injection-like results Active · 1 sourceTazaroteneA prescription vitamin A for acne and psoriasis. Its pregnancy labelling is the strictest of the class — raise it with a clinician Active · 2 sourcesTranexamic AcidA brightener for melasma and stubborn patches, usually 2–5% — stacks well with vitamin C and niacinamide for tone Active · 9 sourcesTretinoinThe active form of vitamin A, roughly 20× stronger than retinol and prescription-only in most places. Used for acne, sun damage, uneven tone Active · 1 sourceTrifaroteneA newer prescription vitamin A for acne, including chest and back. The class pregnancy caution applies to it too

Exfoliants · 16

Exfoliant · 3 sourcesBetaine SalicylateA gentler take on salicylic acid — oil-soluble, so it works inside the pore on the buildup behind clogs and blackheads Exfoliant · 2 sourcesCitric AcidTechnically an AHA, but it’s mostly there to set a formula’s pH — a weaker exfoliant than glycolic or lactic Exfoliant · 1 sourceGluconolactoneA newer exfoliating acid: effects like glycolic or lactic acid with less irritation, one review says — and it holds water too Exfoliant · 5 sourcesGlycolic AcidThe classic exfoliating acid in toners and peels — loosens dead surface cells to smooth texture and even tone over weeks Exfoliant · 4 sourcesLactic AcidAn exfoliating acid that also pulls in water. Above 10% it acts much like glycolic Exfoliant · 1 sourceLactobionic AcidA mild sugar-acid exfoliant that also holds water and acts as an antioxidant — gentler than glycolic or lactic acid, one review says Exfoliant · 2 sourcesMalic AcidAn apple-derived exfoliating acid, nearly always a supporting player in acid blends. Like any AHA, it raises sun sensitivity Exfoliant · 1 sourceMandelic AcidThe AHA usually recommended first for sensitive or melanin-rich skin — a convention Drop has found no study behind Exfoliant · 1 sourcePapainThe papaya enzyme exfoliant — breaks down skin proteins so dead cells shed. Careful if latex-allergic Exfoliant · 1 sourcePapaya ExtractA gentle enzyme exfoliant — milder than acids, so it often suits skin that finds glycolic too harsh. Works slowly Exfoliant · 1 sourceSalicinThe willow-bark compound sold as a gentle salicylic acid, but not shown to act as one on skin Exfoliant · 4 sourcesSalicylic AcidThe oil-loving acid in acne products — gets into pores and dissolves the plug. Good for blackheads and oily skin; 2% is the OTC max Exfoliant · 2 sourcesSuccinic AcidA mild acid in spot products, sold as gentler than salicylic or benzoyl peroxide — effects are modest, more upkeep than fix Exfoliant · 1 sourceSulfurAn old-school acne and seborrheic-dermatitis ingredient — smell and dryness push most people to masks or short-contact use Exfoliant · 3 sourcesTartaric AcidA grape-derived AHA that usually shows up in multi-acid blends — like other AHAs, it raises sun sensitivity Exfoliant · 1 sourceWillow Bark ExtractMarketed as a natural BHA, but it is not a salicylic acid dose — don’t count it as your acne or exfoliating step

Antioxidants · 62

Antioxidant · 2 sources3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidA newer vitamin C that mixes into both water and oil, stays stable, and turns active well on skin — big in K-beauty serums AntioxidantAçaí Fruit ExtractPurple açaí berry polyphenols that add antioxidant activity at the surface — a supporting extract, usually at modest levels AntioxidantAlgae ExtractA generic seaweed extract with no species named — usually a low-cost humectant and antioxidant helper; activity varies a lot Antioxidant · 2 sourcesAlpha Lipoic AcidAn antioxidant that works in both water and oil — moderate evidence alone; best as a partner to vitamin C and E AntioxidantApple Fruit ExtractApple flesh and peel polyphenols that add antioxidant activity at the surface — usually a supporting extract at modest levels Antioxidant · 1 sourceAscorbyl GlucosideOne of the most stable vitamin C forms, but slow to turn active on skin — give it 2–3 months for visible brightening Antioxidant · 1 sourceAscorbyl PalmitateAn oil-soluble vitamin C used mostly to keep other oils from going rancid — modest skin effect at typical amounts Antioxidant · 2 sourcesAscorbyl TetraisopalmitateThe oil-friendly vitamin C — stable, doesn’t sting, and turns active on skin. Common in pricier sensitive-skin serums Antioxidant · 1 sourceAstaxanthinA deep-red antioxidant that outdoes vitamin E in lab tests — topical evidence is thin, and it tints formulas pink AntioxidantBasil ExtractSweet basil leaf and flower extract — phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity and a faint aromatic note. A supporting player AntioxidantBHTA long-used antioxidant added in tiny amounts to keep a product’s oils from going rancid — it protects the formula, not skin Antioxidant · 1 sourceBilberry ExtractA berry antioxidant, same pigment family as blueberries — a nice partner to vitamin C in a morning serum AntioxidantBlueberry Fruit ExtractLowbush blueberry — deep-blue anthocyanins and other polyphenols that add antioxidant activity. A supporting plant extract Antioxidant · 1 sourceBrassica Oleracea (Cabbage) Leaf ExtractRed cabbage extract is an antioxidant in a test tube. Its one skin study compared two ways of delivering it, not it against none.AntioxidantCaffeineThe eye-area de-puffer — narrows vessels for a few hours. Modest and short-lived; evidence for lasting wrinkle benefit is weak AntioxidantCamellia Japonica Flower ExtractCamellia petals — a different prep from Tsubaki seed oil, with flavonoids for antioxidant activity and a mild astringent feel AntioxidantCarnosineA small peptide antioxidant that in lab studies also mops up the reactive bits behind glycation — human topical trials are limited AntioxidantCitrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit ExtractLemon fruit extract with vitamin C precursors and flavonoids — a mild brightening antioxidant, distinct from the more potent peel oil AntioxidantCoccinia Indica Fruit ExtractIvy gourd fruit extract — polyphenols and flavonoids with antioxidant activity. A supporting botanical, not the headline name AntioxidantCocoa ExtractCocoa bean polyphenols that add antioxidant activity — a different ingredient from cocoa butter, which is the softening fat Antioxidant · 2 sourcesCoenzyme Q10A fat-soluble antioxidant your cells already make — a supporting player in serums; the “cell energy” pitch outruns the evidence AntioxidantCoptis Japonica Root ExtractJapanese goldthread root — berberine and related compounds with antioxidant activity; the bright yellow color is the giveaway AntioxidantEggplant Fruit ExtractEggplant extract — nasunin, the purple antioxidant pigment, plus other phenolics. A botanical antioxidant in brightening formulas AntioxidantErgothioneineA rare antioxidant the body actively collects — found in mushrooms and beans, and growing in premium antioxidant serums AntioxidantEthyl FerulateAn oil-friendly form of ferulic acid — an antioxidant mostly used to help vitamin C and E last longer before they oxidize Antioxidant · 1 sourceFerulic AcidThe sidekick that keeps vitamin C from breaking down in the bottle, plus its own antioxidant action. Rarely sold on its own Antioxidant · 1 sourceGinger ExtractA supporting antioxidant used in small amounts — the warming tingle can be uncomfortable on sensitive skin AntioxidantGinkgo Biloba ExtractA leaf extract with antioxidant activity in lab tests — a supporting player in eye serums, not a headline active Antioxidant · 2 sourcesGinseng ExtractA K-beauty antioxidant favorite in toners and essences — supportive rather than load-bearing next to vitamin C AntioxidantGlutathioneSold for brightening, but it barely gets into skin — most evidence comes from oral or IV use. Marketing runs ahead of the evidence AntioxidantGlycine Soja Seed ExtractA soybean seed extract providing antioxidant isoflavones and skin-conditioning activity Antioxidant · 1 sourceGreen Tea Extract (EGCG)Put on before UV, green tea polyphenols cut redness, sunburn cells and DNA damage in one human study. An extra, not a sunscreen.AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) ExtractSunflower flower and leaf extract — not the seed oil; polyphenols that act as antioxidants with mild calming support Antioxidant · 1 sourceHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower ExtractRoselle hibiscus extract — in lab cells it curbed UV damage signals, collagen-breaking enzymes and pigment enzymes.AntioxidantHimanthalia Elongata (Sea Thong) ExtractAtlantic sea thong seaweed — antioxidant polyphenols and skin-conditioning polysaccharides, limited clinical data AntioxidantHoly Basil ExtractTulsi leaf extract — a different plant from sweet basil, with phenolic compounds that act as antioxidants at the surface Antioxidant · 1 sourceIdebenoneA lab-made cousin of CoQ10 with stronger antioxidant power — but allergy reports run higher, so patch-test first Antioxidant · 9 sourcesL-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)The vitamin C in brightening serums — mops up daily free-radical damage, supports collagen, and slows melanin. Its low pH is why some sting Antioxidant · 2 sourcesMagnesium Ascorbyl PhosphateA stable, water-loving vitamin C that layers with niacinamide more easily — brightening at 3–5%AntioxidantMalachite ExtractAn extract of the copper mineral malachite, sold as an antioxidant; how much it does on skin is not well studied Antioxidant · 1 sourceOlea Europaea (Olive) Leaf ExtractRich in the antioxidant oleuropein. It protected skin cells from UVA in a dish and helped rat wounds close; untested in skincare.AntioxidantOpuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Stem ExtractMucilage-rich cactus stem extract — binds water and delivers polyphenols; distinct from the pricier seed oil AntioxidantOrange Fruit ExtractOrange flesh and juice, not peel — citrus antioxidants without the terpenes that raise sun sensitivity. No swap for a vitamin C serum AntioxidantPear Fruit ExtractPear flesh and skin — mild antioxidant polyphenols plus a trace of water-holding sugars. A supporting extract at modest levels AntioxidantPeony Root ExtractPeony root — paeoniflorin and other phenolics with antioxidant and calming activity, used as a gentle botanical brightener AntioxidantPhysalis Angulata (Ground Cherry) ExtractGround cherry extract with anti-inflammatory physalins — well-studied internally, limited direct topical data Antioxidant · 1 sourcePhytic AcidMostly a stabilizer that binds metals so vitamin C serums last longer — some brightening reported, evidence is moderate Antioxidant · 1 sourcePomegranate ExtractA polyphenol-rich antioxidant with strong lab activity — a supporting ingredient rather than a headline one AntioxidantPsidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit ExtractGuava is unusually high in vitamin C and lycopene — useful antioxidant botanical, though topical RCT data is thin Antioxidant · 2 sourcesPycnogenol (Pine Bark Extract)A branded pine bark extract with strong antioxidant activity — more evidence taken by mouth than on skin; a serum supporting act Antioxidant · 2 sourcesResveratrolA grape-derived antioxidant that works differently than vitamin C or E, so it shows up in blends. Formulation matters more than the amount AntioxidantRice Bran ExtractA light, non-greasy antioxidant for serums and creams — the UV-protection claims outrun the evidence; it’s no sunscreen swap AntioxidantRosemary Leaf ExtractA plant antioxidant that mops up free radicals and slows oils in the bottle from going off — carries a faint herbal aroma Antioxidant · 1 sourceRoyal Jelly ExtractBee-made royal jelly — boosted collagen genes in skin cells in one lab study. It contains known allergens.AntioxidantScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractChinese skullcap root — flavonoids that act as antioxidants; a supporting player in calming formulas, not the main active AntioxidantSiraitia Grosvenorii (Monk Fruit) ExtractMonk fruit extract with antioxidant mogrosides — primarily known as a sweetener, used in skincare as a mild soothing antioxidant Antioxidant · 2 sourcesSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateThe most stable everyday vitamin C form — it turns active on skin and also works on acne bacteria. Effects are gradual AntioxidantSodium MetabisulfiteA stability antioxidant — protects fragile ingredients from turning brown or losing potency AntioxidantTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractExtract from Kakadu plum — one of the world's highest natural sources of vitamin C, used as an antioxidant in skincare AntioxidantTocopheryl AcetateA shelf-stable form of vitamin E that keeps a product’s oils from going off — milder on skin than plain vitamin E AntioxidantTurmeric ExtractA strong antioxidant in lab tests, used in tiny amounts because it stains skin and clothes bright yellow-orange Antioxidant · 1 sourceVitamin E (Tocopherol)An antioxidant that shields the oily part of your barrier. Low on a list, it mostly keeps the formula's oils fresh

Hydrators · 86

Hydrator1,2-HexanediolA small solvent that holds a little water and spreads a formula — mostly there to back up the preservative system, quietly HydratorAcetyl GlutamineA stabilized form of the amino acid glutamine — holds water at the skin’s surface for a smooth feel HydratorAlanineAn NMF amino acid — draws and holds water at the skin's surface for a softer, smoother feel HydratorAnhydroxylitolA moisture binder made from xylitol — draws and holds water at the skin’s surface for a hydrated feel Hydrator · 1 sourceAspartic AcidAn NMF amino acid. Older skin had more of it than young skin, yet was drier; its use in products has not been tested.Hydrator · 2 sourcesBetaineA smooth, non-sticky moisture-puller that also helps cells hold water under stress. Common in essences and toners; pairs with glycerin HydratorBiosaccharide Gum-1A fermented sugar that binds water in a light, breathable surface film — smooth, soft, conditioned feel Hydrator · 1 sourceButylene GlycolDoes propylene glycol’s job — pulls in water, dissolves actives — with less irritation and a lighter feel than glycerin alone Hydrator · 1 sourceCaprylyl GlycolA small glycol that conditions skin and also works as a preservative. Contact-allergy reports mean it isn't for everyone HydratorChondrus Crispus ExtractIrish moss seaweed — thickens a formula and holds water in a light surface film for a slippery, cushiony feel HydratorCladosiphon Okamuranus ExtractOkinawan mozuku seaweed — its fucoidan draws and holds water at the surface for a cushiony feel. A supporting humectant HydratorCorallina Officinalis ExtractA chalky red seaweed extract carrying minerals and water-holding sugars — a supporting humectant in hydrating serums and masks HydratorDecylene GlycolA multitasking glycol — dissolves ingredients, conditions the surface, and helps the preservative system work HydratorDextranA sugar polymer made by fermentation — holds water at the surface and dries to a light, smoothing film HydratorDiglycerinTwo glycerin units joined — pulls water to the skin like glycerin, with a less tacky feel HydratorDimethylsilanol HyaluronateA hyaluronic acid tweaked with silicon — holds water at the surface and adds extra smooth slip. Texture, not an active HydratorDipropylene GlycolDissolves fragrance, actives, and plant extracts into water-based formulas — adds light hydration and a smooth feel Hydrator · 2 sourcesEctoinA tiny water-binding molecule from extreme-environment bacteria — hydrating and mildly calming HydratorErythritolA sugar alcohol that draws water into skin HydratorEthylhexanediolA glycol that dissolves ingredients, holds a little water at the surface, and helps the preservative system do its job HydratorFructooligosaccharidesShort fructose chains — hold water at the skin’s surface and act as a prebiotic meant to support skin’s microbe balance HydratorFructoseThe fruit sugar used as a humectant — pulls in and holds water at the surface for a softer, smoother feel HydratorGalactoarabinanA water-holding sugar from larch trees — hydrates the surface and dries to a light, smoothing film Hydrator · 1 sourceGalactomyces Ferment FiltrateThe fermented base of most K- and J-beauty essences — modest gains in hydration and evenness, on thinner evidence than niacinamide HydratorGlucoseA basic sugar that pulls in and holds water to support surface hydration — mild, and a building block for other ingredients HydratorGlutamic AcidAn NMF amino acid that converts to PCA — the water-binding compound that keeps the outer skin layer soft and hydrated HydratorGlycereth-26A glycerin-based moisture magnet — pulls water to the skin’s surface and holds it there Hydrator · 4 sourcesGlycerinThe plain moisture-puller in almost everything, from drugstore cleansers to pricey serums. It may also shield skin from irritants HydratorGlyceryl GlucosideA hydrator made from glycerin and glucose — attracts and holds water at the skin’s surface HydratorGlycineThe simplest amino acid, part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor — attracts and holds water at the surface HydratorHexylene GlycolA small solvent that dissolves other ingredients and keeps a formula pourable and light — also helps the preservative system HydratorHistidineAn amino acid that helps skin hold water HydratorHoneyA concentrated natural sugar — draws and holds water at the skin’s surface, with a sticky feel some masks use Hydrator · 1 sourceHyaluronic AcidThe water magnet in hydrating serums — pulls moisture to the surface. Use on damp skin and seal it in, or dry air can leave you drier HydratorHydrogenated Starch HydrolysateA sugar-derived ingredient that pulls water into skin, like glycerin HydratorHydrolyzed CollagenCollagen broken into small fragments — binds water and smooths the surface; it doesn’t rebuild your skin’s own collagen HydratorHydrolyzed Corn StarchCorn starch broken into small pieces — holds water, adds soft slip, and forms a light, smoothing film HydratorHydrolyzed SilkBroken-down silk protein that helps skin hold water HydratorHydrolyzed Soy ProteinSoy protein broken into small pieces — binds water and leaves a light film for a smoother, conditioned feel HydratorHydrolyzed Vegetable ProteinPlant protein in small water-soluble pieces — binds water and leaves a light film for a conditioned feel HydratorHydrolyzed Wheat ProteinWheat protein in small water-soluble pieces — attracts water and leaves a light, conditioning film HydratorHydroxyethyl UreaA urea-related hydrator — attracts and holds water at the skin’s surface with a light, non-tacky feel HydratorHydroxypropyltrimonium HyaluronateA hyaluronic acid that clings to skin and hair — holds water in a longer-lasting film. Hydration and softness, not an active HydratorInositolA sugar-like molecule used to hold water at the surface and leave skin feeling smooth HydratorIsomaltA sugar alcohol that draws water into skin, like glycerin HydratorIsopentyldiolA glycol that dissolves other ingredients and holds water at the surface — also boosts the preservative system HydratorMannitolA sugar alcohol that holds water, so it adds light hydration and a smooth feel — gentle, and it also helps steady some formulas HydratorMethyl Gluceth-20A glucose-based hydrator — attracts water to the skin’s surface and adds a light, smooth slip HydratorMethylpropanediolHolds water at the skin surface and dissolves hard-to-mix ingredients — feels light, and can help other actives sink in HydratorPantolactoneA close cousin of panthenol (provitamin B5) — conditions the surface and helps steady a formula’s pH HydratorPCAOne of the skin’s own water-holding molecules HydratorPEG-8A water-loving helper — holds moisture at the surface, dissolves other ingredients, and smooths the feel Hydrator · 1 sourcePentylene GlycolA light glycol that conditions skin and also helps preserve the formula — one ingredient doing two jobs HydratorPolydextroseA glucose-based ingredient that helps skin hold water Hydrator · 3 sourcesPolyglutamic AcidA fermented moisture-holding film that outperforms glycerin alone in tests — often paired with HA, which sinks in while PGA stays on top HydratorPolyglycerin-3Three glycerin units joined — draws water to the skin like glycerin but with a lighter, less tacky feel Hydrator · 1 sourcePolyquaternium-51A phosphorylcholine polymer used to moisturise. A close relative, with hyaluronic acid, raised skin water in one study.HydratorProlineAn amino acid humectant — helps draw and hold water at the skin’s surface for a smoother feel HydratorPropanediolA light water-binder that also dissolves hard-to-mix ingredients — a gentler-feeling stand-in for propylene glycol Hydrator · 1 sourcePropylene GlycolA moisture-puller and solvent high on many serum labels. The antifreeze rumor is misleading — but in larger amounts it can sting sore skin HydratorRhamnoseA simple plant sugar — helps hold water at the skin’s surface for a smooth, hydrated feel Hydrator · 1 sourceRice WaterStrained rice water — a mix of hydrators and mild antioxidants, used in K-beauty for brightening. Slow and modest HydratorSaccharide IsomerateA plant-sugar hydrator — binds water to skin and is marketed for longer-lasting surface hydration HydratorSaccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) ExtractSugarcane extract — provides natural amino acids and minerals that bind water and condition skin Hydrator · 1 sourceSea Kelp ExtractSeaweed sugars that hold water on the skin — a nice supporting hydrator; the “detoxifying” talk is marketing HydratorSea WaterPurified seawater carrying minerals like magnesium and potassium — used as a water base and humectant part of a formula HydratorSericinA silk protein — binds water and forms a light, smooth film for a softer, conditioned feel HydratorSerineAn amino acid from skin’s natural moisturizing factor — attracts and holds water for a softer, smoother feel HydratorSodium Acetylated HyaluronateA tweaked form of hyaluronic acid that clings to skin — draws in water and keeps the moisturized feel around longer HydratorSodium Carboxymethyl BetaglucanA water-soluble beta-glucan — holds water at the skin’s surface and forms a light, smoothing film Hydrator · 2 sourcesSodium HyaluronateWhat’s actually in most “hyaluronic acid” products — a water-binder that holds moisture at the surface; smaller sizes sit a little deeper HydratorSodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerA linked-up form of hyaluronic acid — sits on the surface as a water-holding gel so hydration stays put longer Hydrator · 2 sourcesSodium LactateThe salt form of lactic acid — it hydrates instead of exfoliating, and it’s part of skin’s own moisture system Hydrator · 2 sourcesSodium PCAOne of the skin’s own moisture-holding molecules, bottled — hydrates about as well as glycerin and generally suits sensitive skin HydratorSoluble CollagenWater-soluble collagen that holds water in a light surface film for a smoother feel — it doesn’t replace your own collagen Hydrator · 1 sourceSorbitolA sugar alcohol that draws in moisture — common in lip balms, hand creams and gentle cleansers HydratorSucrosePlain sugar — holds water at the skin’s surface; in scrubs it’s the grain that dissolves as you massage HydratorTaurineA small organic acid used as a humectant — helps hold water at the skin’s surface for a smooth feel Hydrator · 1 sourceThreonineAn amino acid found in eccrine sweat, whose mix resembles the source of the skin's natural moisturising factor HydratorTrehaloseA natural sugar that holds water unusually well — a mild hydrator that plays nicely with glycerin and hyaluronic acid HydratorTremella Fuciformis ExtractSnow mushroom — its big sugar molecule holds water at the surface much like hyaluronic acid, for a smooth, slippery feel Hydrator · 2 sourcesUreaAt 3–5% it pulls in water; at 10% and up it also softens rough, bumpy skin like keratosis pilaris or cracked heels HydratorWatermelon Fruit ExtractWatermelon flesh — water plus amino acids that hold moisture at the surface, with a little carotenoid antioxidant activity HydratorXylitolA sugar alcohol that pulls in and holds water — helps keep the skin surface hydrated and the formula from drying out HydratorXylitylglucosideA sugar-derived hydrator, usually in a xylitol blend — attracts and holds water at the skin’s surface HydratorYeast Amino AcidsAmino acids from yeast that hold water at the surface and leave skin feeling smooth

Barrier ingredients · 186

BarrierApricot Kernel OilA light, fast-absorbing seed oil that softens skin and eases a tight, dry feel BarrierArachidyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol (not a drying one) — thickens creams and adds a rich, smooth, conditioning feel Barrier · 1 sourceArgan OilA balanced, fairly light plant oil with vitamin E — a nice finishing step for dry skin. The ‘liquid gold’ hype outruns plain softening Barrier · 1 sourceAvocado OilA heavy, slow-absorbing oil for very dry skin and balms. Its oleic-heavy profile makes it a poor fit for acne- or fungal-acne-prone skin BarrierBabassu OilA light seed oil that melts at skin temperature and softens BarrierBaobab Seed OilA seed oil that softens dry skin Barrier · 1 sourceBeeswaxThe wax that gives balms structure and seals moisture in — can feel heavy on the face; vegans swap in candelilla BarrierBeheneth-20An emulsifier and texture agent — blends oil and water, dissolves oily ingredients, and builds thickness BarrierBehenic AcidA long-chain fatty acid that thickens creams — gives them body and helps keep emulsions stable BarrierBehenyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol that softens and thickens creams — nothing like drying alcohol, despite the name BarrierBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2A soft, semi-solid softener similar to skin’s own fats — rich cushiony slip; structures balms and lip products BarrierBis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl DimethiconeA silicone that mixes into water-based formulas and smooths skin Barrier · 2 sourcesBorage OilA plant oil rich in GLA, an omega-6 fat — may modestly support the barrier. Goes rancid fast, so store it carefully BarrierBrassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil CopolymerA plant-oil polymer that forms a flexible, water-resistant film — helps a product stay put and resist transfer BarrierButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateA light coconut-derived softener that glides on and dries silky — used to cut greasiness in lotions and serums BarrierButyloctyl SalicylateAn oily ester that adds slip and dissolves sunscreen filters so they spread evenly — despite the name, not an exfoliating acid BarrierC10-18 TriglyceridesA blend of fats that soften near skin temperature — smooth melting feel; structures balms and creams BarrierC12-13 Alkyl LactateA light oil that softens skin — its lactic acid is bound, so it does not exfoliate BarrierC12-15 Alkyl BenzoateThe dry, silky oil-alternative in lotions, sunscreens, and serums — softens skin and helps a product spread without grease BarrierC12-20 Alkyl GlucosideA mild plant-derived emulsifier made from sugars and fatty alcohols — blends oil and water BarrierC13-15 AlkaneA light, fast-sinking oil that stands in for silicones BarrierC15-19 AlkaneA light plant-derived emollient, often from sugarcane — dry, silky, non-greasy feel in place of light silicones BarrierC18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearateA long-chain wax that firms up sticks, balms, and rich creams — smooth payoff; texture, not a skin active Barrier · 1 sourceCamellia OilA light, long-lasting Japanese face and hair oil — but it’s oleic-rich, so not ideal if you get fungal acne BarrierCandelilla WaxThe vegan stand-in for beeswax in balms and lip products — a bit firmer, so formulas need less of it BarrierCandelilla Wax EstersA plant wax that sits on skin and slows water loss BarrierCanola OilA light plant oil — softens the skin’s surface and forms a thin layer that slows water loss Barrier · 1 sourceCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideThe light, silky oil in tons of serums and sunscreens — an expert panel judged it safe as used BarrierCaprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic TriglycerideA stable skin-softening oil — smooth, with a slightly richer slip than lighter triglycerides BarrierCaprylyl Caprylate/CaprateA coconut-derived emollient with a dry, silky finish — softens skin, often replacing volatile silicones BarrierCaprylyl MethiconeA silicone-oil hybrid with a light, dry slip — helps sunscreen filters and other oils dissolve and spread evenly BarrierCarnauba WaxThe hardest natural wax — it keeps sticks and balms solid in warm weather BarrierCastor OilA thick, sticky oil used in lip balms and lash oils — heavy on the face and sometimes flagged as pore-clogging Barrier · 3 sourcesCeramidesOne of the ceramides — together they are about half the fats holding skin’s outer layer together. Harsh cleansing strips them BarrierCeteareth-12An emulsifier and mild cleansing agent — blends oil and water into a stable mix and helps lift away oils BarrierCetearyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol that thickens lotions and softens skin — not the drying kind of alcohol, despite the name BarrierCetearyl EthylhexanoateA light oil that softens skin and helps creams spread BarrierCetearyl IsononanoateA non-greasy softening ester — gives creams and makeup a smooth, cushioned glide BarrierCeteth-20An emulsifier and solubilizer — blends oil and water and dissolves small amounts of oily ingredients into water bases BarrierCetyl AlcoholThe lighter half of cetearyl alcohol — a waxy softener and emulsion stabilizer, not the drying kind of alcohol BarrierCetyl BehenateA wax-like softener that firms up balms and sticks and adds a smooth feel BarrierCetyl DimethiconeA soft, silky silicone — conditions the surface, adds slip, and helps thicken creams and color products BarrierCetyl EthylhexanoateA silky ester with a light, dry finish — softens and smooths the surface and makes creams and makeup feel better going on BarrierCetyl PalmitateA waxy ester that thickens balms and rich creams and softens the skin surface — a texture-and-feel ingredient, not an active BarrierChenopodium Quinoa (Quinoa) Seed ExtractProtein-rich quinoa extract that forms a light skin-conditioning film — softening function, not a standalone active Barrier · 1 sourceCholesterolOne of the three barrier fats, alongside ceramides and fatty acids — rarely the headline, but foundational in barrier-repair formulas BarrierCoco-CaprylateA coconut-derived oil with a dry, fast-sinking slip like light silicone — the natural-formula pick for spreadability and softness Barrier · 1 sourceCocoa ButterA rich body butter classic — often flagged as pore-clogging on faces, and the stretch-mark claims are mostly anecdotal BarrierCocoglyceridesCoconut-derived softening fats — smooth emollient feel; help structure and stabilize creams BarrierCoconut AlkanesA silky, coconut-derived oil that stands in for silicones Barrier · 3 sourcesCoconut OilA rich body moisturizer and oil-cleanser staple — its fatty acids can feed fungal acne; its pore-clogging reputation is untested BarrierCupuaçu Seed ButterA soft Amazonian butter related to cocoa — takes up water for a cushiony, softening feel in rich creams BarrierCyclohexasiloxaneA light silicone that carries other ingredients with a silky slip, then evaporates — weightless finish Barrier · 1 sourceCyclopentasiloxaneThe silicone behind that silky primer finish that disappears as it dries — an expert panel found little of it passes into skin BarrierDecyl OleateAn oily ingredient that softens skin and adds slip BarrierDibutyl AdipateA light ester that softens skin and helps a product spread without feeling oily — also dissolves sunscreen filters BarrierDicaprylyl CarbonateA silky, fast-sinking oil that thins heavier butters so a formula spreads dry, not slick — also helps dissolve sunscreen filters BarrierDicaprylyl EtherA coconut-derived oil with a dry, fast-sinking feel — helps a product glide on without greasiness; also helps lift off makeup BarrierDiheptyl SuccinateA light, silky oil that stands in for silicones BarrierDiisopropyl AdipateA thin, dry-touch oil that sinks in fast without grease and dissolves sunscreen filters or fragrance so they spread evenly BarrierDiisopropyl SebacateA lightweight softener with a smooth, low-residue slip — helps other oily ingredients spread and mix evenly BarrierDiisostearyl MalateThe rich, glossy, cushiony ester behind lipsticks, balms, and glosses — softens, adds shine, and helps color glide on evenly Barrier · 2 sourcesDimethiconeThe silicone that smooths texture and holds water in under a breathable film — an expert panel found it isn’t absorbed and rarely irritates BarrierDimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 CrosspolymerA silicone that forms a flexible film — softens the look of fine texture, adds silky slip, helps a product wear evenly BarrierDimethiconolA rich silicone that leaves a smooth, flexible film — long-lasting slip and a softened look for fine texture BarrierDipentaerythrityl HexahydroxystearateA thick, cushiony emollient — binds pigments, adds gloss, and gives structure to balms and oil-based makeup BarrierEthyl LinoleateA light oil made from linoleic acid, a fat the skin uses in its barrier BarrierEthylhexyl PalmitateA light ester that softens the skin surface and spreads easily with a dry, non-oily finish — also helps disperse pigments BarrierEthylhexyl StearateA softening ester with a cushioned, lubricating feel — helps oils spread and pigments blend in tinted products Barrier · 1 sourceEvening Primrose OilA linoleic-rich oil — linoleic acid is one of the fatty acids the barrier uses. Goes rancid fast, so store it well BarrierGlyceryl BehenateA wax-like texture ingredient — gives sticks and balms their structure and adds a smooth, softening feel BarrierGlyceryl DibehenateA waxy ingredient that softens skin and gives creams body BarrierGlyceryl OleateA softener that also helps oil and water stay mixed — in cleansers it can leave skin feeling less stripped BarrierGlyceryl StearateOne of the most common emulsifiers — it keeps the water and oil in a cream from separating, and adds a soft feel BarrierGlyceryl UndecylenateA conditioning ester in products made for fungal-acne-prone skin — it inhibits Malassezia without disrupting the skin barrier BarrierGlycol DistearateThe pearly look in many cleansers — tiny crystals give an opaque, shimmery finish and a soft, creamy feel Barrier · 1 sourceGrapeseed OilA light, mostly linoleic oil that suits oily and combination skin — good for oil cleansing or a thin layer. Oxidizes easily, so avoid heat Barrier · 1 sourceHemp Seed OilA light seed oil rich in linoleic acid, one of the fatty acids the barrier uses. Not the same as CBD oil BarrierHeptyl UndecylenateA light, castor-derived oil that stands in for silicones BarrierHexyl LaurateA light emollient oil — softens the skin’s surface and helps spread pigments evenly BarrierHydrogen DimethiconeA silicone coating for pigments and mineral powders — makes them water-repellent and easier to disperse evenly BarrierHydrogenated Castor OilCastor oil turned into a hard wax — thickens balms and sticks and gives them structure and a smooth glide BarrierHydrogenated Microcrystalline WaxA wax that sits on skin and slows water loss BarrierHydrogenated Palm GlyceridesSemi-solid palm-derived fats — soften skin, give creams and balms body, and help keep oil and water together BarrierHydrogenated PolydeceneA clear, stable synthetic oil with a light, silky, non-greasy slip — often used in place of mineral oil or silicones BarrierHydrogenated PolyisobuteneA synthetic oil with a smooth, cushiony, long-wearing glide — softens the surface, adds shine to balms, and resists going off BarrierHydrogenated Rapeseed OilRapeseed oil made more solid and stable — thickens creams and balms and leaves a soft, conditioned feel BarrierHydrogenated Shea ButterA firmer, shelf-stable form of shea butter — softens skin, slows water loss, and gives balms structure BarrierHydrogenated Vegetable OilPlant oil firmed up for stability — softens skin and gives balms, sticks, and rich creams body and a smooth melt Barrier · 1 sourceHydrolyzed Jojoba EstersWater-dispersible jojoba ester. A small pilot by its maker found it cut skin water loss when added to a glycerin lotion.BarrierInulin Lauryl CarbamateA chicory-sugar emulsifier that keeps oil and water mixed and the texture smoother, usually with other emulsifiers BarrierIsoamyl LaurateA light, silky plant-based emollient — softens skin and adds slip, often standing in for light silicones BarrierIsodecyl NeopentanoateA fast-spreading softener with a dry, velvety finish — keeps makeup, sunscreens, and light lotions from feeling greasy BarrierIsododecaneAn ultra-light oil that spreads fast then evaporates — the weightless feel behind long-wear, transfer-proof textures BarrierIsohexadecaneA very light, dry-feeling oil that spreads fast and leaves little residue — carries pigments and oils in primers, SPF, and makeup BarrierIsononyl IsononanoateA lightweight softener with a smooth, dry slip — helps sunscreens and makeup spread without a greasy finish Barrier · 1 sourceIsopropyl MyristateA silky, fast-absorbing texture ingredient in lotions — an old pore-clogging flag makes it a suspect if a cream breaks you out Barrier · 1 sourceIsopropyl PalmitateA slightly heavier cousin of isopropyl myristate in body care and makeup — carries the same old pore-clogging flag BarrierIsostearyl IsostearateA richer, cushiony softener — smooths the surface, adds slip, and helps pigments spread in balms and makeup BarrierJojoba EstersSoft wax beads or solids made from jojoba oil — condition skin with silky slip; also a gentle scrub bead Barrier · 1 sourceJojoba OilA liquid wax closer to your skin’s own oil than most plant oils — one of the easiest facial oils to tolerate, even on oily skin BarrierJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil EstersSoft wax esters from jojoba and macadamia oils — melt on contact for smooth slip and a soft balm texture BarrierKokum ButterThe hardest of the common butters — a little adds structure to a balm without feeling heavy. Generally won’t clog pores Barrier · 1 sourceLanolinA very effective moisture sealer from sheep wool, more flexible-feeling than petrolatum — but also a common allergen, so patch test first Barrier · 1 sourceLauric AcidA softening fatty acid (C12) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally use BarrierLauryl LactateA light softening ester — conditions the surface and helps other ingredients spread and absorb BarrierLauryl LaurateA wax-like softener that adds a smooth, slightly powdery slip and helps give balms and makeup structure BarrierLecithinA natural fat that holds oil and water together and can carry other ingredients — leaves a soft, conditioned feel Barrier · 3 sourcesLinoleic AcidAn essential fatty acid your body can’t make, and part of the barrier’s fat matrix alongside ceramides and cholesterol Barrier · 1 sourceLinolenic AcidAn omega-3 fat — fed with linoleic acid to lab-grown skin, it ended up in the skin's fats and the barrier improved.BarrierMacadamia Seed OilA rich plant oil with sebum-like fatty acids — softens skin; oleic-heavy oils are a poor fit for fungal-acne-prone skin BarrierMango ButterA body butter that feels lighter than cocoa and softer than shea, with less of the pore-clogging flag Barrier · 1 sourceMarula OilA rich, oleic-heavy finishing oil for dry to very dry skin. Not ideal for fungal-acne-prone skin, since oleic acid can feed malassezia BarrierMeadowfoam EstolideA light emollient from meadowfoam seeds — softens skin with a smooth, silky slip and resists oxidation BarrierMeadowfoam Seed OilA light oil that resists going rancid longer than almost any other plant oil — long shelf life, and a good finishing oil or blend stabilizer BarrierMethyl TrimethiconeA light silicone that spreads things silky-smooth, then mostly evaporates — smooth finish, no residue BarrierMicrocrystalline WaxA flexible petroleum wax — structures balms and sticks, binds oils together, and leaves a smooth sealing film Barrier · 3 sourcesMineral OilA refined, inert sealer that slows water loss — cosmetic grade doesn’t penetrate skin and isn’t an allergen. Lighter than petrolatum BarrierMoringa Seed OilA plant oil that resists going rancid — softens and conditions skin and helps slow water loss BarrierMurumuru ButterA firm Amazonian palm butter — melts at skin temperature, softening skin and slowing water loss Barrier · 1 sourceMyristic AcidA softening fatty acid (C14) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally use BarrierMyristyl AlcoholA waxy fatty alcohol, not a drying one — thickens creams and keeps oil and water from separating BarrierMyristyl MyristateA wax-like softener and thickener — gives creams and sticks body with a smooth, almost powdery slip Barrier · 1 sourceNeem OilA thick, strong-smelling seed oil that softens the skin surface — an emollient, not an active BarrierNeopentyl Glycol DiheptanoateA light softener that glides on and dries powdery-smooth — used to cut greasiness in lotions and makeup BarrierOctyldodecanolA big fatty alcohol that softens skin and helps a product spread — also dissolves some pigments and actives; well tolerated BarrierOctyldodecyl NeopentanoateA lightweight softener that spreads fast — dry, velvety finish with no heavy or oily afterfeel Barrier · 1 sourceOleic AcidA softening fatty acid (C18:1) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally use BarrierOleyl AlcoholA fatty alcohol that softens skin — not the drying kind Barrier · 2 sourcesOlive OilRich oil that’s ~70% oleic acid — feeds fungal-acne yeast, and not for a fragile barrier; skip during eczema or seb-derm flares BarrierOzokeriteA natural mineral wax that hardens balms and sticks — keeps oils from separating and raises the melting point BarrierPalm OilA rich plant oil that softens skin Barrier · 1 sourcePalmitic AcidA softening fatty acid (C16) that feeds the yeast behind fungal acne — a documented trigger at the levels formulas normally use BarrierParaffinA solid petroleum wax that structures balms and sticks — its film slows water loss from the skin’s surface BarrierPentaerythrityl TetraethylhexanoateA light, stable softener common in sunscreens — smooth dry slip, dissolves UV filters, spreads pigments evenly Barrier · 1 sourcePentaerythrityl TetraisostearateA rich, cushiony ester that mimics silicone feel without silicones — several esters clogged pores in rabbit tests, but not this one BarrierPersea Gratissima Fruit ExtractAn extract from avocado fruit flesh that softens and conditions skin Barrier · 4 sourcesPetrolatumA moisture sealer that works from inside the skin's top layer — the last layer in slugging and barrier rebuilds BarrierPhenoxyethyl CaprylateA light softener and solvent that also gives mild antimicrobial support — better feel plus help protecting the formula BarrierPhenyl TrimethiconeA shine-adding silicone — mostly in hair serums and lip products, where it brings gloss and slip rather than moisture BarrierPhospholipidsSkin-friendly fats from soy or sunflower — soften the surface and help carry other ingredients in tiny lipid spheres BarrierPhytosphingosineA lipid your skin barrier is partly built from, used at low levels alongside ceramides to support the barrier and condition skin BarrierPhytosterolsPlant fats related to skin’s own lipids — soften the surface and give creams a smooth, stable body BarrierPhytosteryl MacadamiateA rich softener from plant sterols and macadamia fatty acids — cushiony feel; helps structure creams BarrierPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer DilinoleateA big plant-based ester that thickens oils and grips pigment — gives balms and makeup a rich, cushiony slip BarrierPolybuteneA thick, tacky polymer that leaves a high-shine, cushiony, long-wearing film — the staple behind glossy lip products BarrierPolyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleateA castor-oil emulsifier that spreads tiny water droplets evenly through oil — steadies balms and oil-based formulas BarrierPolyglyceryl-4 CaprateA mild plant-derived emulsifier — mixes oil and water and helps disperse fragrance or oily actives into water bases BarrierPolyglyceryl-6 CaprylateA mild cleansing and mixing agent — lifts oils and helps oily ingredients dissolve into water-based formulas BarrierPolyglyceryl-6 StearateAn emulsifier — binds oil and water into a stable cream, often paired with other polyglyceryl esters BarrierPolyisobuteneA synthetic polymer that softens and leaves a flexible, water-resistant film — the shine in glosses and long-wear formulas BarrierPolysilicone-11A silicone gel that softens the look of pores and fine lines, adds velvety slip, and soaks up some oil — common in primers Barrier · 1 sourcePrickly Pear Seed OilA light, fast-absorbing seed oil that suits acne-prone and combination skin — pricey because the seed yield is tiny BarrierPropylheptyl CaprylateA lightweight softening ester — helps moisturizers and sunscreens glide on with a soft, dry-touch feel BarrierRice Bran WaxThe hard rice-bran wax that firms up balms and sticks — adds gloss and a thin film that slows water loss BarrierRice Germ OilA light oil from rice germ that softens the surface and leaves skin feeling smooth BarrierRosehip Seed OilA nourishing night finishing oil for dry or stressed skin. The ‘natural retinoid’ claim doesn’t hold — the retinoic acid traces are tiny BarrierRubus Chamaemorus Seed OilA cold-pressed Arctic cloudberry seed oil rich in omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9 fatty acids BarrierSafflower Seed OilA light plant oil — the high-linoleic type matches the skin barrier’s fats well and absorbs with a light feel Barrier · 1 sourceSea Buckthorn OilA bright orange antioxidant oil — used in small amounts inside blends because the color can temporarily tint skin Barrier · 1 sourceShea ButterA rich plant butter used to condition dry skin. If you break out easily, it may be safer on the body than the face BarrierSodium Dilauramidoglutamide LysineAn amino-acid emulsifier that builds layered creams — they spread smoothly and mirror the structure of skin’s surface lipids BarrierSorbitan TristearateA co-emulsifier — stabilizes water-in-oil formulas and helps fats and waxes set with a smoother texture BarrierSoybean OilA plant oil that softens and smooths skin — a common, lighter-feeling base oil in lotions and cleansers BarrierSphingolipidsFatty molecules related to ceramides — blend into the skin’s surface lipids for a smoother, cushioned feel Barrier · 1 sourceSqualaneA light, shelf-stable version of an oil your skin already makes — softens skin without feeling heavy Barrier · 1 sourceSqualeneThe unsaturated cousin of squalane. In acne-prone skin, more of its oxidised form went with oilier skin in one small study Barrier · 1 sourceStearic AcidA thickener in classic cold-cream style lotions that’s also one of skin’s own barrier fats BarrierStearyl AlcoholThe heavier half of cetearyl alcohol — a waxy softener that gives thick creams their cushion. Not a drying alcohol BarrierStearyl DimethiconeA wax-like silicone — thickens balms and makeup and leaves a smooth, slightly water-repellent finish BarrierSucrose StearateA sugar-based emulsifier — blends oil and water into gentle creams and lotions with a smooth, light feel BarrierSucrose Tetrastearate TriacetateA sugar-based thickener for the oily part of a formula — gives body and even spread, often in sunscreens Barrier · 1 sourceSunflower OilA linoleic-rich oil that fits the barrier’s own fatty-acid profile — studied even on infant skin. Look for the high-linoleic cosmetic type BarrierSunflower Seed WaxA plant wax that slows water loss and gives balms structure Barrier · 1 sourceSweet Almond OilA medium-weight nut oil with a soft feel — common in body oils and gentle face creams. Skip it if you’re allergic to tree nuts BarrierTamanu OilA thick, dark nut oil with rich, heavy slip — softens skin; its dense feel suits dry skin more than breakout-prone skin BarrierTridecaneA light hydrocarbon fluid with easy slip — dries to a non-greasy finish, often replacing volatile silicones BarrierTridecyl NeopentanoateA light emollient ester — spreads easily with a smooth, non-greasy feel and resists oxidation BarrierTridecyl TrimellitateA thick, water-resistant softener that grips pigment, adds gloss, and helps color makeup wear longer BarrierTriethylhexanoinA light, non-greasy oil — spreads smoothly, softens skin, and dissolves pigments and oily actives BarrierTriheptanoinA light, fast-absorbing oil that softens skin with a smooth, non-greasy slip and dissolves other oily ingredients BarrierTrihydroxystearinAn oil-phase thickener from castor oil — gels balms, suspends pigments, and keeps oily formulas from separating BarrierTrimethylsiloxysilicateA silicone resin behind long-wear makeup and sunscreen — leaves a thin, water-resistant film that resists rub-off BarrierTrioleinAn oleic-rich fat like those in many plant oils — softens skin and helps slow water loss Barrier · 1 sourceUndaria Pinnatifida ExtractWakame seaweed extract — its purified fucoidan sped barrier recovery in mice by helping skin cells mature.BarrierUndecaneA light, fast-evaporating hydrocarbon — leaves a dry, silky feel, often used in place of light silicones

SPF filters · 22

SPF filter · 4 sourcesAvobenzoneThe main UVA filter in US sunscreens — covers the long UVA mineral-only formulas miss. Needs a partner filter so it doesn’t break down SPF filter · 4 sourcesBemotrizinolA broad-spectrum sun filter that, in lab tests, stays stable and steadies weaker filters. Standard abroad, not allowed in US sunscreens SPF filter · 1 sourceBenzophenone-4 (Sulisobenzone)Sunscreen UV filter. In lab tests it switched on PPARγ and made stem cells become fat cells. Real-world risk is unmeasured.SPF filterDiethylhexyl SyringylidenemalonateA sunscreen helper that keeps filters like avobenzone from breaking down, so SPF holds up better over the hours after you apply SPF filterEthylhexyl MethoxycryleneA sunscreen helper that soaks up stray energy from filters like avobenzone so they don’t break down — SPF holds up longer SPF filter · 1 sourceHomosalateA common UVB filter in US sunscreens, stable and well tolerated. The EU capped it at 7.34% over hormone questions raised by lab data SPF filter · 1 sourceIron OxidesThe tint in tinted sunscreens — dermatologists advise it for melasma, because visible light can darken melasma SPF filter · 2 sourcesIscotrizinolAn oil-soluble UVB filter that holds up in sunlight — cleared in the EU, Australia, and Japan, but not the US SPF filter · 2 sourcesMexoryl SXA water-soluble UVA filter that holds up in sunlight — standard in the EU, rare in the US where approval is brand-specific SPF filter · 2 sourcesMexoryl XLA broad-spectrum filter that holds up in sunlight and steadies avobenzone — common in EU sunscreens, not approved in the US SPF filter · 3 sourcesOctinoxateA stable UVB sunscreen filter, long one of the most-used worldwide. Some places (Hawaii, Palau) restrict it over reef concerns SPF filter · 3 sourcesOctisalateA UVB sunscreen filter — not much on its own, but it’s the one that keeps avobenzone from breaking down in sunlight SPF filter · 3 sourcesOctocryleneA UVB filter whose main job is keeping avobenzone stable in sun. A 2021 study found it breaks down into benzophenone as products age SPF filter · 2 sourcesOxybenzoneAn older sunscreen filter that works, but Hawaii and other regions banned it over reef concerns, and allergy reports run higher SPF filterPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic AcidEnsulizole, a UVB filter that soaks up burning rays — water-soluble, so it makes light SPF textures; needs partners for UVA SPF filter · 1 sourcePolysilicone-15A UVB filter on a silicone chain that adds a little protection alongside others — EU-permitted, not a US sunscreen active SPF filter · 2 sourcesTinosorb MA hybrid filter that both absorbs and scatters UV, covering UVA and UVB — common in EU sunscreens, not yet cleared in the US SPF filter · 1 sourceTitanium DioxideA mineral filter that bounces UV — covers UVB and short UVA, so it’s paired with zinc for the rest. Less white cast. Fine in pregnancy SPF filter · 1 sourceTris-Biphenyl TriazineA newer filter for UVB and shorter UVA that barely breaks down in sunlight — EU-permitted since 2014, never in sprays SPF filter · 2 sourcesUvinul A PlusA dedicated long-wave UVA filter that doesn’t break down in sun — common in EU and Japanese sunscreens, not yet cleared in the US SPF filter · 2 sourcesUvinul T 150One of the most efficient UVB filters by weight, with a light feel — common in EU sunscreens, not yet cleared in the US SPF filter · 2 sourcesZinc Oxide (sunscreen)The most reliably broad mineral sunscreen filter — handles UVA and UVB. Newer grinds cut the white cast mineral SPF used to leave

Soothing ingredients · 36

Soothing · 1 sourceAchillea Millefolium ExtractYarrow calmed deliberately irritated skin in one small human test. The compounds behind it have not been identified.Soothing · 1 sourceAllantoinA skin-conditioning agent judged safe at cosmetic levels. Common in sensitive-skin creams; no source Drop has read tested a benefit Soothing · 1 sourceAloe VeraMostly water and plant sugars — a decent hydrator that cools sunburn on the surface. Some people react to raw leaf extracts Soothing · 1 sourceArtemisia Capillaris ExtractA mugwort relative used in K-beauty for redness and reactive skin — patch-test if ragweed bothers you Soothing · 1 sourceAscophyllum Nodosum ExtractA brown seaweed extract with clinical evidence for soothing sensitive skin and supporting the barrier Soothing · 1 sourceAsiatic Acid & Madecassic Acid (Centella triterpene acids)The active compounds in cica — in a lab dish they raised the collagen skin cells make, but that isn’t proof on real skin Soothing · 3 sourcesAsiaticosideThe best-documented compound in centella — used to support skin recovery after procedures and to back up the barrier Soothing · 3 sourcesBeta-GlucanA sugar from oats, yeast, or mushrooms that forms a hydrating film, supports the barrier, and calms reactive skin Soothing · 1 sourceBifida Ferment LysateThe fermented ingredient made famous by Advanced Night Repair — small studies suggest barrier recovery after sun stress Soothing · 2 sourcesBisabololThe calming part of chamomile, concentrated — eases surface redness and supports the barrier. A quiet helper in sensitive-skin formulas SoothingCalendula ExtractA flower extract with modest evidence for calming minor irritation and redness — common in baby and sensitive-skin products Soothing · 1 sourceCentella Asiatica (Cica)Cica — the calming plant extract in post-acid, post-laser, and redness-prone routines. Eases inflammation and supports repair Soothing · 1 sourceChamomile ExtractA flower extract used to calm redness and sensitivity; the trial evidence is weak. Patch-test if daisies and ragweed bother you Soothing · 2 sourcesColloidal OatmealOne of the better-studied calming ingredients — used in eczema-friendly creams, after procedures, and in baby products SoothingCucumber ExtractMostly water with a little vitamin C and K — a mild hydrator; the de-puffing story is really just something cool on skin Soothing · 1 sourceEclipta Prostrata ExtractBhringraj extract showed anti-inflammatory activity in test-tube assays only. It has not been tested on skin in any study Drop has read.SoothingFeverfew ExtractA calming, antioxidant-rich plant extract — supplied with parthenolide stripped out, since that compound can itself sensitize skin SoothingGlycyrrhetinic Acid (and derivatives)The oil-soluble licorice compound in soothing creams and balms — recognized for conditioning and calming reactive skin Soothing · 1 sourceHouttuynia Cordata ExtractA Korean herbal calming ingredient, often used alongside or instead of centella — limited evidence, but gentle Soothing · 1 sourceLactobacillus Ferment LysateA fermented-bacteria ingredient sold as “microbiome support” — realistically a mild surface soother and hydrator Soothing · 2 sourcesMadecassosideThe single calming molecule pulled out of cica — evidence for faster barrier recovery and less surface redness SoothingMarshmallow Root ExtractA plant mucilage that adds soft slip and a calming surface feel — light evidence, but very gentle SoothingMugwortA calming Korean-formula botanical with antioxidant action in lab tests — clinical evidence is limited, but most people tolerate it well Soothing · 1 sourceNeem ExtractAn Ayurvedic staple that turns up in acne and scalp formulas — but one to skip in pregnancy, breastfeeding, or while trying to conceive Soothing · 1 sourceNelumbo Nucifera Flower ExtractLotus extract — one small trial of a lab-grown lotus cell extract found slight lightening; the flower extract itself is untested.Soothing · 5 sourcesNiacinamide (Vitamin B3)The do-most-things B3 — supports the barrier, evens tone, calms oil and redness. Pairs with nearly anything Soothing · 1 sourcePanthenol (Pro-vitamin B5)Vitamin B5 — hydrates, calms irritation, and supports recovery after acids, retinoids, or sun Soothing · 1 sourcePortulaca Oleracea ExtractPurslane extract — a calming plant extract whose anti-inflammatory evidence is from lab and animal work, not human skin.Soothing · 2 sourcesPropolisThe bee resin in K-beauty essences — mildly calming and antimicrobial, though evidence is thin. Standardized extracts are more reliable Soothing · 1 sourceRose ExtractUsually just distilled rose water — a light hydrator and a scent. It can be a fragrance allergen for some people Soothing · 1 sourceSaccharomyces Ferment FiltrateFiltered yeast ferment — SK-II’s Pitera is one version. Hydrating with a mild exfoliating edge; patch-test if yeast acne flares SoothingSnail MucinThe hydrating K-beauty essence ingredient — well tolerated and moisturizing, though evidence for scar and firmness claims is limited Soothing · 1 sourceThermal Spring WaterMineral spring water used as a mist and product base. The one review Drop cites has not been read yet, so no benefit is claimed.Soothing · 1 sourceVanilla Planifolia Fruit ExtractA plant extract from vanilla beans used as a skin conditioning agent Soothing · 1 sourceWitch HazelAn astringent for oily, congested skin — the distilled kind often has 14–15% alcohol, rough on dry or rosacea-prone skin Soothing · 1 sourceZincThe usual partner to niacinamide in oil-control serums — though no source Drop has read measured either one against oil

Everything else · 265

These don’t sit under a single function — preservatives, emulsifiers, solvents, thickeners, and the fragrance components on the EU’s 26-allergen list. The rest of what actually fills an ingredient list. They still get a page each.

IngredientAcacia Senegal GumA tree gum that thickens water-based formulas — its drying film gives a temporary tightening, smoothing feel IngredientAcetoneA fast-evaporating solvent, mostly in nail-product removers — can dry out skin and nails with frequent contact IngredientAcrylates CopolymerForms a light film as a product dries — locks in the finish and helps control oil and shine in primers and long-wear formulas IngredientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA thickener that swells in water so creams stay uniform and gels hold their shape — it just sits on the surface IngredientAcrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate CopolymerA thickening polymer — forms a film that swells with skin oils for a long-wearing, oil-resisting finish IngredientAcrylates/Octylacrylamide CopolymerA film former in sunscreens and makeup — dries to a water-resistant layer that resists transfer IngredientAcrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate CopolymerA texture polymer — thickens and stabilizes a formula, drying to a flexible film that controls spread IngredientActivated CharcoalThe black-mask ingredient — dramatic looking, but it doesn’t pull toxins out of skin. Not harmful, just not the active Ingredient · 1 sourceAdenosineA fine-lines ingredient — one placebo-controlled trial measured smoother eye-area skin by week 3, still there at 8 weeks IngredientAlginA gelling agent from brown seaweed — thickens formulas and sets peel-off (alginate) masks Ingredient · 2 sourcesAlpha-Isomethyl IononeA synthetic violet-iris note in lots of modern scents — an EU-labeled fragrance allergen; skip it if fragrance bothers your skin IngredientAluminaA fine mineral powder that coats pigments and mineral UV filters — helps them spread evenly and improves texture IngredientAluminum HydroxideA mineral coating for sunscreen particles and pigments — helps them spread smoothly without clumping IngredientAminomethyl PropanolA pH adjuster — raises a formula’s pH so gelling polymers like carbomer swell into a clear gel IngredientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA thickener that swells in water to hold a formula together — keeps oils and pigments evenly spread, with a soft, non-tacky feel Ingredient · 2 sourcesAmmonium Lauryl SulfateVery close to SLS — strong, rinse-clean foam, mostly in shampoos. Daily use on the face raises the odds of a dry, stressed barrier Ingredient · 2 sourcesAmyl CinnamalA synthetic jasmine scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list — fewer reported cases than cinnamal. Skip if fragrance bothers you Ingredient · 1 sourceAmylcinnamyl AlcoholA soft floral scent ingredient the EU makes brands name on the label, because a small number of people react to it IngredientAmylopectinThe branched form of starch — thickens formulas and leaves a soft, smooth feel on the surface Ingredient · 2 sourcesAnise AlcoholThe anise-hawthorn floral note in some scents — an EU-labeled fragrance allergen, so skip it if you’ve ever reacted to fragrance IngredientArachidyl GlucosideA gentle sugar-based mixing helper — builds and stabilizes soft, smooth oil-in-water creams IngredientArginineAn amino acid used to balance a formula’s acidity and hold a little water — a gentle helper rather than a headline active IngredientBehentrimonium MethosulfateA mild conditioning agent in conditioners and rich creams — leaves a smoothing, detangling film Ingredient · 1 sourceBentonite ClayA strongly absorbent clay for oily, congested skin — too drying for dry or sensitive skin. Once a week is plenty IngredientBenzoic AcidA gentle preservative (also used in food) that guards mostly against yeast — works best in lower-pH formulas, often with partners Ingredient · 5 sourcesBenzoyl PeroxideThe acne ingredient that kills breakout bacteria — 2.5% works as well as 10% with less irritation. Common in spot gels and washes Ingredient · 2 sourcesBenzyl AlcoholDoubles as a scent and a preservative. It’s on the EU’s list of 26 fragrance allergens, so fragrance-sensitive skin can react to it Ingredient · 2 sourcesBenzyl BenzoateA sweet-balsamic fragrance ingredient the EU makes brands name on the label — an established allergen, if not a top one Ingredient · 1 sourceBenzyl CinnamateA sweet, balsamic scent from natural resins — EU-labeled because it can cause allergic reactions in some people Ingredient · 1 sourceBenzyl SalicylateA soft floral-balsamic scent ingredient — EU-labeled because a minority of people react to it Ingredient · 1 sourceBergamot OilThe earl-grey-tea citrus oil — bergamot oil is phototoxic in sunlight, so keep it to night and off sun-exposed skin IngredientBeta-CaroteneThe orange-yellow plant pigment that adds natural color and keeps oils from going rancid — color and stability, not a skin claim IngredientBiotinVitamin B7 — well-known orally for nails and hair; topical skin evidence is thin, making it more of a supporting ingredient in most formulas Ingredient · 1 sourceBitter Orange OilCold-pressed bitter-orange peel oil — phototoxic in sun, same as bergamot and lime; not the same thing as sweet orange oil IngredientButylene/Ethylene/Styrene CopolymerA rubbery oil-phase thickener — binds sticks and balms together with a smooth, cushioned feel Ingredient · 1 sourceButylphenyl MethylpropionalA lily-scented fragrance (Lilial) banned in the EU in 2022 as toxic for reproduction — scent only, no skin function IngredientCalcium ChlorideA simple calcium salt — sets peel-off (alginate) masks and helps fine-tune a formula’s thickness IngredientCaprylhydroxamic AcidKeeps germs out of a product and binds stray metals across a wide pH — the workhorse in “preservative-free” style systems Ingredient · 1 sourceCapryloyl GlycineAmino-acid-based cleansing and preserving ingredient. One case of allergic contact dermatitis has been reported in a person with eczema.IngredientCaprylyl/Capryl GlucosideA mild sugar-based cleanser that makes a soft foam — gentle enough for sensitive-skin and baby washes; also helps mix in oils Ingredient · 1 sourceCapsaicinThe chili-pepper compound behind warmth and burn — held during a rosacea flare, though no study Drop has read tested it on rosacea skin IngredientCarbomerThe polymer that turns water into a clear gel — behind most see-through toners, essences, and gel creams. Rarely irritating IngredientCellulosePlant fiber as a fine powder — absorbs oil, adds a soft feel, and stands in for plastic micro-particles IngredientCellulose GumA plant-derived thickener for water-based gels, cleansers, and lotions — adds slip, stays on the surface, and rinses away IngredientCeteareth-20A very common emulsifier that keeps oil and water mixed into a smooth cream — it can also blend a little oil into watery formulas IngredientCetearyl GlucosideA plant-derived emulsifier from fatty alcohols and sugars — blends oil and water into a stable cream with a soft feel IngredientCetearyl OlivateAn olive-derived emulsifier that blends oil and water and gives a cream body — a sensitive-skin favorite with sorbitan olivate IngredientCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 DimethiconeA silicone-based emulsifier — keeps water dispersed in silicone bases like some primers and long-wear products IngredientChlorphenesinA preservative that handles bacteria and fungi, usually teamed with phenoxyethanol — small amounts, purely to keep a product safe IngredientCI 15850 (Red 7 Lake)A synthetic red dye, usually a mineral-bound lake for lipsticks and blushes — its only job is color, with no skin-care effect IngredientCI 15985 (Yellow 6 / Sunset Yellow FCF)Sunset Yellow FCF — a synthetic yellow dye (FD&C Yellow No. 6) used purely for color, with no documented skin-care effect IngredientCI 16035 (Red 40 / Allura Red AC)Allura Red AC — the most widely used red colorant in food, drugs, and cosmetics. In skincare it is purely for color IngredientCI 17200 (Red 33)A synthetic red dye (D&C Red No. 33) common in cosmetics and bath products — its only job is color, no skin-care effect IngredientCI 19140 (Yellow 5 / Tartrazine)Tartrazine — a synthetic yellow dye (FD&C Yellow No. 5) used purely for color, in either water- or oil-based formulas IngredientCI 26100 (Red 17 / Solvent Red 23)An oil-soluble synthetic red dye (D&C Red No. 17) used to color the oily part of creams and makeup — color only IngredientCI 42090 (Blue 1)A synthetic blue dye (FD&C Blue No. 1) that does one job: color. No documented skin-care effect Ingredient · 2 sourcesCinnamal (Cinnamic Aldehyde)The cinnamon-stick scent — one of the most-reported of the EU’s 26 fragrance allergens, and flagged as a rosacea trigger Ingredient · 1 sourceCinnamyl AlcoholA sweet, balsamic cinnamon-like scent — one of the fragrance compounds the EU makes brands label, since it can cause allergic reactions Ingredient · 2 sourcesCitralA lemony scent from citrus and lemongrass oils, on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip it if fragrance bothers you Ingredient · 2 sourcesCitronellolA rose-floral scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list that cross-reacts with geraniol. Skip it if fragrance bothers you Ingredient · 2 sourcesClary Sage OilAn essential oil to avoid in pregnancy — it influences hormones and is traditionally used to bring on labor. Otherwise a mild scent oil Ingredient · 1 sourceCocamidopropyl BetaineThe coconut-derived helper surfactant — adds foam, thickens, and softens harsher cleansers. Occasionally an allergen from leftovers IngredientCocamidopropyl HydroxysultaineA gentle coconut-derived foaming agent — makes cleansers milder, creamier, and softer-foaming Ingredient · 1 sourceCoco GlucosideA gentle coconut-and-corn-sugar cleanser in the same mild tier as decyl glucoside — kind to eczema, rosacea, and damaged barriers IngredientCoco-BetaineA gentle coconut-derived cleansing agent — boosts foam and softens the effect of stronger surfactants Ingredient · 2 sourcesCoumarinA sweet hay and tonka-bean scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip it if fragrance bothers you Ingredient · 1 sourceCyanocobalamin (Vitamin B12)B12 — a 0.07% cream helped eczema in one reported study; B12 supplements and injections are linked to acne and allergic reactions.IngredientCyclodextrinRing-shaped sugar molecules with a hollow center — stabilize fragile ingredients and trap odor molecules Ingredient · 1 sourceDecyl GlucosideA sugar-based gentle cleanser that foams less and doesn’t strip the barrier — the base of many fragrance-free washes and baby washes IngredientDehydroacetic AcidA preservative that covers bacteria, mold, and yeast — usually teamed with benzyl alcohol, in small amounts, to keep a product safe IngredientDenatured AlcoholThe fast-drying carrier that makes toners feel light. Fine low on the label; in the first three spots, daily use can dry and stress skin IngredientDextrinA plant-starch binder and carrier that soaks up a little oil and can leave a soft, matte, powdery feel — no skin claim of its own Ingredient · 1 sourceDiazolidinyl UreaA formaldehyde-releasing preservative that releases more than its sibling imidazolidinyl urea — a recurring skin allergen; skip if sensitive IngredientDimethicone CrosspolymerThe silky silicone in many primers — smooths, soaks up some oil for a matte touch, and blurs the look of fine texture IngredientDimethyl IsosorbideA sugar-derived solvent — dissolves tricky ingredients and helps carry them into the upper skin layers IngredientDipotassium GlycyrrhizateA water-soluble licorice-root ingredient used to condition skin — popular in formulas aimed at sensitive, easily-irritated skin IngredientDisodium CocoamphodiacetateA gentle coconut-derived cleanser — makes a soft foam and softens the bite of stronger cleansing agents IngredientDisodium EDTAGrabs stray metal ions that would speed spoilage or break down actives — it protects the formula, it doesn’t act on your skin Ingredient · 1 sourceDisodium Laureth SulfosuccinateA mild foaming cleanser for brands that want lather without the strip of SLS. Well tolerated, and not tied to sulfate dryness IngredientDisodium Lauryl SulfosuccinateA mild cleansing agent — lifts away oil and dirt with a soft foam; considered gentler than harsher sulfates IngredientDisodium PhosphateA buffer salt that holds a formula at a steady pH — protects ingredient performance and keeps it comfortable IngredientDistarch PhosphateA modified plant starch — thickens, soaks up excess oil, and leaves a soft, powdery, matte feel IngredientDisteardimonium HectoriteA modified clay for oil-based and waterproof makeup — thickens the oil phase and keeps pigments evenly suspended Ingredient · 1 sourceDMDM HydantoinA preservative that slowly releases formaldehyde — fine for most, but skip it if you’ve flagged a preservative sensitivity IngredientEssential OilsA browsing label, not a safety call — the class runs from gentle chamomile to potent allergens. Drop flags each oil on its own entry IngredientEthoxydiglycolA solvent that dissolves both watery and oily ingredients — keeps tricky mixes even and helps them spread IngredientEthyl AcetateThe fast-evaporating solvent in nail polish and removers — shows up occasionally in skincare as a processing solvent IngredientEthylene/Propylene/Styrene CopolymerA rubbery oil-soluble thickener — gels the oil phase and improves the glide and structure of sticks and balms Ingredient · 1 sourceEthylhexylglycerinA helper that strengthens the main preservative and lightly conditions skin, letting formulas use less preservative. Rarely a problem IngredientEthylparabenA paraben preservative — small amounts keep a product free of bacteria, mold, and yeast over its shelf life IngredientEucalyptus OilThe sharp, cooling scent in some products — a fragrance oil, and like other essential oils it can irritate or sensitize some skin Ingredient · 2 sourcesEugenolThe clove scent in clove and cinnamon oils — one of the more common of the EU’s 26 fragrance allergens Ingredient · 1 sourceEvernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) ExtractA mossy, resinous fragrance from lichen — the single most common of the EU-26 fragrance allergens on patch testing Ingredient · 1 sourceEvernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) ExtractA mossy, woody fragrance from lichen — one of the most common fragrance allergens, so the EU banned its two main allergens Ingredient · 1 sourceFarnesolA soft, sweet floral scent — one of the fragrance compounds the EU makes brands label, since it can cause allergic reactions Ingredient · 1 sourceFig ExtractFig leaves and sap carry the same sun-reactive compounds as citrus peel — documented severe rashes from fig contact plus sun IngredientFolic AcidVitamin B9 in a bottle — included on the idea it supports skin cells’ DNA repair, but human evidence for the topical form is sparse Ingredient · 3 sourcesFragranceOne label for hundreds of scent chemicals, added for smell, not skin benefit — some are known sensitizers. Sensitive skin does best without Ingredient · 2 sourcesGeraniolA rose-scented molecule on the EU’s 26-allergen list — one of the more common fragrance allergens in patch testing IngredientGeranium OilSweet, rose-like floral scent — a fragrance oil, and like other essential oils it can irritate or sensitize some skin IngredientGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerA water-loving film former in masks and gels — dries clear and flexible and helps hold water at the surface IngredientGlyceryl CaprylateHelps oil and water blend and is mildly germ-fighting, so formulas can lean on less preservative — soft skin feel, quiet job IngredientGlyceryl PolymethacrylateA water-holding polymer — forms a light, smooth film and adds slip and body to gel textures IngredientGlyceryl Stearate CitrateAn emulsifier from glycerin, a fatty acid, and citric acid — keeps creams blended; picked for gentle sensitive-skin formulas IngredientGold (Colloidal / CI 77480)Luxury-positioned gold particles — published evidence for a skin benefit is essentially absent; gold sits inert on the surface IngredientGrapefruit OilFresh, slightly bitter citrus scent from grapefruit peel — a fragrance oil that may raise sun sensitivity IngredientHDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone CrosspolymerTiny light-scattering spheres — soften the look of pores and fine lines, add powdery slip, and soak up some oil IngredientHexadecene CopolymerAn oil-soluble texture polymer — thickens the oil phase with a smooth, non-greasy slip Ingredient · 2 sourcesHexyl CinnamalA soft jasmine scent used all over personal care, on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip it if fragrance bothers you Ingredient · 2 sourcesHydrocortisoneA low-strength steroid cream that calms itch and inflammation short-term — not a routine step; ongoing face use is a derm call IngredientHydroxyacetophenoneAn antioxidant that helps a product’s preservatives work better — marketed as soothing, but its real job is formula freshness Ingredient · 2 sourcesHydroxycitronellalA lily-of-the-valley scent synthetic — one of the more common of the EU’s 26 fragrance allergens in patch testing IngredientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerA thickener that builds a smooth gel to hold creams and gels together — gives a light, silky texture instead of a heavy one IngredientHydroxyethylcelluloseA plant-derived thickener that turns water-based formulas into a clear, smooth gel and keeps other ingredients evenly suspended Ingredient · 1 sourceHydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene CarboxaldehydeA muguet-scented fragrance (Lyral) banned in the EU — it was one of the most common causes of fragrance allergy IngredientHydroxypropyl MethylcelluloseA plant-cellulose thickener (HPMC) — builds smooth gels, stabilizes foams, and dries to a light film IngredientHydroxypropyl Starch PhosphateA modified plant starch that thickens formulas — leaves a soft, powdery, non-tacky finish that cuts greasiness IngredientIllite (Green Clay)The French green clay in masks — binds oil and debris so they rinse away. Fine 1–2 times a week; daily use can dry skin out Ingredient · 1 sourceImidazolidinyl UreaA formaldehyde-releasing preservative, the classic paraben partner — fine for most; skip it if preservatives bother your skin Ingredient · 1 sourceIris Florentina Root ExtractOrris root extract — one lab study found it can darken or lighten pigment, depending entirely on how it was extracted.Ingredient · 2 sourcesIsoeugenolA close relative of eugenol with a similar allergy profile, on the EU’s 26-allergen list. Skip if fragrance bothers you IngredientIsopropyl AlcoholA fast-evaporating solvent — helps products dry quickly and feel less tacky; can be drying in high amounts IngredientIsopropyl Titanium TriisostearateA coating for mineral pigments and UV particles — makes them water-repellent so they spread evenly and wear better Ingredient · 1 sourceKaolin ClayA soft face clay that soaks up surface oil — common in masks. Breathing the dust is the main caution IngredientLaureth-7A mixing helper that disperses oils into water-based formulas — supports stability and thickening IngredientLauroyl LysineFine platelets from lauric acid and lysine — coat pigments and add a soft, silky slip in makeup Ingredient · 1 sourceLauryl GlucosideA mild sugar-based cleanser common in baby washes and low-pH sensitive-skin formulas — friendlier to a stressed barrier than sulfates IngredientLauryl HydroxysultaineA gentle co-cleanser — cleans, builds stable foam, and softens the bite of stronger cleansing agents Ingredient · 2 sourcesLavender OilA scent oil with hormone-like activity linked to breast growth in young boys — avoid in pregnancy and before puberty. Also a common allergen Ingredient · 1 sourceLemon OilCold-pressed lemon-peel oil — phototoxic in sun, so keep it to night and off sun-exposed skin IngredientLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateFermented radish root that makes its own germ-fighting compounds — a natural-positioned way to help keep a formula fresh IngredientLevulinic AcidA plant-sugar acid that fine-tunes a formula’s pH — paired with sodium levulinate, it helps keep formulas fresh Ingredient · 1 sourceLime OilCold-pressed lime-peel oil — phototoxic in sun; lime is behind many documented sun rashes Ingredient · 2 sourcesLimoneneA citrus-peel scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list — it oxidizes with age into a stronger allergen. Skip if fragrance bothers you Ingredient · 2 sourcesLinaloolA lavender-and-bergamot scent on the EU’s 26-allergen list — aged, air-exposed batches are the bigger risk. Skip if fragrance bothers you IngredientLinalyl AcetateThe sweet, fresh floral note found in lavender and bergamot — a fragrance compound that can irritate or sensitize some skin IngredientLithothamnion Calcareum ExtractA calcified red algae used as a mineral source — calcium, magnesium, and trace elements, with a slightly chalky feel IngredientMagnesium Aluminum SilicateA purified clay — thickens formulas, suspends pigments, and keeps emulsions from separating IngredientMagnesium StearateA powder binder — holds pressed powders together, helps them stick to skin, and adds a smooth, slippery feel IngredientMagnesium SulfateEpsom salt, used here as a texture and stability aid — a pinch locks water-in-oil creams together and controls how thick they are IngredientMaltodextrinA plant-starch carbohydrate used to carry other ingredients, smooth the finish, and steady texture — a benign background helper IngredientMandarin Orange OilSoft, sweet citrus scent from mandarin peel — a fragrance oil that can carry compounds which may raise sun sensitivity Ingredient · 2 sourcesMentholThe cooling “tingle” in refreshing formulas — dermatologists tell people with rosacea to avoid it IngredientMenthyl LactateThe gentle, long-lasting cooling feel in some products — much less minty smell and sting than menthol itself IngredientMethiconeA silicone coating for pigments and mineral powders — helps tinted and powder products apply smoothly Ingredient · 1 sourceMethyl 2-OctynoateA sharp green, violet-leaf scent — EU-labeled because it can cause allergic reactions Ingredient · 1 sourceMethylisothiazolinoneMI, a preservative that became one of the top contact allergens — EU-banned in leave-ons; avoid if preservatives bother you Ingredient · 1 sourceMethylparabenOne of the longest-studied preservatives, used at tiny amounts. The scare studies used doses far above skin exposure; regulators allow it IngredientMicaA finely milled mineral that bounces light for a subtle glow or soft-focus finish — purely cosmetic, and it stays on the surface IngredientMicrocrystalline CellulosePurified plant cellulose milled fine — thickens, soaks up a little oil, and gives a smooth blurring feel; stays on the surface Ingredient · 1 sourceNiacin (vitamin B3)Not niacinamide — a different molecule that labels mix up with it. Niacinamide is the form used in skincare IngredientNylon-12Tiny round particles that soak up surface oil, add silky slip, and blur the look of texture in powders and primers Ingredient · 1 sourceParsley ExtractA parsley botanical that turns up in brightening or detox formulas — carries the same sun-reactive compounds as citrus peel oils IngredientPatchouli OilThe deep, earthy scent that also makes a fragrance last longer — a scent oil that can sensitize some skin IngredientPectinThe gelling sugar from fruit — thickens water-based formulas and stabilizes textures IngredientPEG-100 StearateAn emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended in a stable cream — almost always listed next to glyceryl stearate IngredientPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor-oil-derived helper that dissolves oils and fragrance into watery formulas so toners and micellar waters stay clear IngredientPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilA solubilizer — lets drops of oil or fragrance dissolve clearly into watery products like toners and micellar waters IngredientPentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateAn antioxidant that keeps a formula’s oils from going rancid or changing color — a stability helper, not a skin active IngredientPentasodium TriphosphateA stability salt — binds trace metals that speed spoilage or color change, and can buffer pH Ingredient · 1 sourcePeppermint OilThe essential oil behind a lot of “cooling” formulas — menthol is its main constituent, so Drop treats it the way it treats menthol IngredientPhenethyl AlcoholA softly floral alcohol found in roses — supports the preservative system and adds scent Ingredient · 1 sourcePhenoxyethanolThe industry’s default preservative — keeps water-based products from growing bacteria and mold at 0.5–1.0%. Reactions are uncommon IngredientPineneThe fresh, piney note in pine and many essential oils — a fragrance compound that can irritate or sensitize some skin IngredientPiroctone OlamineAn antifungal used mostly in scalp and hair products — limits the yeast linked to dandruff and flaking IngredientPoloxamer 184A gentle cleansing helper — dissolves oils and fragrance into watery formulas and cleans without harshness IngredientPolyacrylamideA synthetic thickener and stabilizer — keeps oil and water mixed and lays a thin film for a smoother feel IngredientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6A gelling polymer for water-based formulas — builds body with a light, fresh, powdery, non-tacky feel IngredientPolyacrylate-13A quick-thickening polymer — builds a smooth gel, suspends particles, and keeps oil and water mixed IngredientPolyaminopropyl BiguanideA preservative (PHMB) — keeps water-containing formulas from spoiling, working at very low concentrations IngredientPolyethyleneA synthetic wax that thickens balms and sticks — its micro-bead forms are phased out of rinse-off products in many markets IngredientPolyglyceryl-10 LaurateA mild mixing helper — dissolves fragrance and small amounts of oil into water-based formulas IngredientPolyglyceryl-10 StearateA gentle helper that blends oils into water-based creams and lotions — keeps them stable with a smooth feel IngredientPolyglyceryl-2 DipolyhydroxystearateA mixing helper for richer creams and balms — keeps water droplets dispersed in oil for a stable, cushioned body IngredientPolyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateAn emulsifier for balms and cleansing oils — holds water droplets inside oil-rich formulas and keeps them stable IngredientPolyglyceryl-3 DiisostearateA mixing helper for richer creams and sunscreens — keeps water dispersed in oil and spreads pigments evenly IngredientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose DistearateA mild plant-derived emulsifier that blends oil and water into a stable cream — light, soft feel; a sensitive-skin favorite IngredientPolyglyceryl-6 BehenateA plant-derived emulsifier — blends oil and water into a stable cream with a smooth body IngredientPolyhydroxystearic AcidCoats mineral particles like zinc and titanium dioxide so they spread into an even film instead of clumping or streaking IngredientPolymethyl MethacrylateTiny smooth polymer spheres — fill in fine texture, scatter light for a soft-focus look, and add silky slip IngredientPolymethylsilsesquioxaneMicroscopic silicone beads that roll on for a silky glide, blur the surface, and soak up a little oil for a matte finish IngredientPolysorbate 20The helper that lets fragrance and other oils dissolve into clear toners and mists — the lightest of the polysorbates IngredientPolysorbate 60A sorbitol-derived emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended in creams and can mix fragrance or oil into lighter formulas IngredientPolysorbate 80A mixing helper that dissolves small amounts of oil or fragrance into clear, water-based formulas IngredientPolyvinyl Alcohol (PVA)The film-former behind peel-off masks — dries into one peelable sheet, and also thickens formulas IngredientPolyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)A water-soluble polymer — dries to a clear film, keeps pigments suspended, and helps set a product in place IngredientPotassium Cetyl PhosphateAn emulsifier that keeps oil and water evenly mixed — common in sunscreens and lotions, where even spreading matters IngredientPotassium HydroxideA pH adjuster much like sodium hydroxide — tiny, already-neutralized amounts; in some cleansers it makes a mild liquid soap IngredientPotassium PhosphateA buffer salt — holds a formula near its target pH so ingredients keep performing and feel comfortable on skin IngredientPotassium SorbateThe antifungal half of a common natural-formula preservative pair — works below pH 5 and needs a partner to cover bacteria IngredientPPG-26-Buteth-26A solubilizer — dissolves small amounts of oily ingredients, like fragrance, into clear water bases IngredientPropylene CarbonateA helper for clay thickeners like bentonite — lets the clay swell into a smooth gel instead of gritty clumps Ingredient · 1 sourcePropylparabenThe antifungal partner to methylparaben, capped at 0.14% in the EU. Strong record on skin — the marketing fear outruns the regulatory view IngredientPullulanA fermented sugar that dries into a thin, flexible film — a smooth, momentarily taut feel on the skin Ingredient · 1 sourceQuaternium-15The formaldehyde-releasing preservative that has topped patch-test allergy rankings — the first label name to screen if you react IngredientRosewood OilSoft woody-floral scent, high in linalool — a fragrance oil whose compounds can sensitize some skin IngredientSclerotium GumA fermented thickener that turns water-based formulas into a smooth gel — silky, non-sticky, and gentle Ingredient · 1 sourceSilicaA powder that soaks up oil and softly blurs the look of skin — that’s the primer effect. Judged safe when not irritating IngredientSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerA polymer that turns watery formulas into a smooth, stable gel — light, non-tacky feel even at tiny doses IngredientSodium Acrylates CopolymerThe thickener that turns water into a smooth gel — keeps particles suspended and oil and water mixed IngredientSodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA pre-neutralized gel thickener — swells in water to thicken, suspend particles, and hold emulsions together IngredientSodium AnisateA milder preservation helper from anise and fennel — keeps bacteria, mold, and yeast from spoiling a product Ingredient · 1 sourceSodium BenzoateA preservative that stops mold and yeast in low-pH water formulas — only works below about pH 5, so it’s paired with potassium sorbate IngredientSodium C14-16 Olefin SulfonateA strong-foaming cleansing agent in body washes — lifts away oil and dirt, more cleansing-forward than amino-acid surfactants IngredientSodium CarbomerA pre-neutralized gelling polymer — thickens water-based gels and serums and holds ingredients in suspension IngredientSodium Cetearyl SulfateA mixing helper that keeps creams stable and thick — used for structure here, not as a harsh foaming cleanser IngredientSodium ChlorideTable salt — a pinch thickens certain cleansers or steadies a mix; one of the most harmless things on a label, with no skin claim IngredientSodium CitrateA behind-the-scenes pH buffer that holds a formula steady so actives keep working — usually paired with citric acid IngredientSodium Cocoyl GlutamateA gentle coconut-and-amino-acid cleanser — lifts oil and dirt with a soft lather while staying mild on the barrier Ingredient · 1 sourceSodium Cocoyl IsethionateThe surfactant behind gentle bars and foaming face washes that still lather — much milder than SLS, with a creamier foam IngredientSodium DehydroacetateA preservative that holds back mold, yeast, and some bacteria — often paired with benzyl alcohol IngredientSodium GluconateA glucose-derived metal binder that keeps a formula stable and well-preserved — biodegradable and mild IngredientSodium HydroxideThe pH adjuster that dials a formula to its target range — it ends up as a trace amount, so seeing it low on a label is normal IngredientSodium IsethionateA mild cleansing agent — gives a soft, creamy lather that lifts away oil and dirt more gently than harsher detergents Ingredient · 1 sourceSodium Laureth SulfateA softened SLS — same foam and cleaning, less irritation. On dry or stressed skin it can still feel tight, so follow with moisturizer IngredientSodium Lauroyl LactylateA gentle helper that keeps oil and water mixed — adds a soft, conditioned feel; common in mild formulas IngredientSodium Lauroyl SarcosinateA mild cleanser made from lauric acid — lifts oil and dirt with a soft foam, gentler than many sulfates Ingredient · 3 sourcesSodium Lauryl SulfateThe high-foam cleanser workhorse — strips oil well, and a documented irritant. As a face wash’s main surfactant, it’s the tight-skin culprit IngredientSodium LevulinateA plant-sugar-derived salt that helps keep formulas fresh — often paired with sodium anisate as a gentle preservative IngredientSodium MetaphosphateA stability helper — steadies a formula’s pH and ties up trace metals that would speed spoilage or discoloration IngredientSodium Methyl Cocoyl TaurateA mild foaming cleanser that rinses clean without residue — a favorite in J- and K-beauty washes IngredientSodium PhosphateA pH buffer salt — keeps a formula at its intended acidity so other ingredients stay stable IngredientSodium PhytateA plant-seed-derived metal binder that keeps a formula stable and true in color — the pick for brands skipping synthetic EDTA IngredientSodium PolyacrylateA super water-absorbent polymer — a pinch swells into a smooth gel that thickens, steadies a mix, and feels light and silky IngredientSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateA gel-making thickener in serums and creams — suspends particles and stabilizes emulsions across a wide pH range IngredientSodium Stearoyl GlutamateA mild emulsifier from an amino acid and a fatty acid — keeps lotions blended; a favorite in gentle fragrance-free formulas IngredientSodium Stearoyl LactylateA gentle helper that keeps oil and water mixed — soft, conditioned feel; common in mild formulas IngredientSodium SulfateA simple salt — fine-tunes the thickness of cleansers and balances a formula’s salt level IngredientSorbic AcidA gentle preservative (also used in food) that mainly guards against mold and yeast — works best in lower-pH formulas IngredientSorbitan IsostearateA gentle emulsifier that keeps lotions, creams, and cleansing oils smooth and uniform — it works on texture, not on your skin IngredientSorbitan OleateA helper that keeps oil and water mixed in creams and makeup — structure only, it doesn’t act on skin IngredientSorbitan OlivateAn olive-derived emulsifier that holds a cream together — paired with cetearyl olivate for a light, well-tolerated feel IngredientSorbitan StearateA mixing helper that keeps creams and lotions from separating — usually paired with a partner emulsifier IngredientSpearmint OilSweet, mild minty scent, softer than peppermint — a fragrance and flavor oil that can irritate some skin IngredientSteareth-20A mixing helper that lets oil and water blend into a stable cream — often paired with a partner emulsifier IngredientStyrene/Acrylates CopolymerTiny polymer beads — scatter light to make a formula look milky or pearly and help carry pigments IngredientSuccinoglycanA fermented sugar thickener — smooth gel, suspends particles, steadies formulas, with a lighter feel than xanthan gum IngredientSweet Orange OilCitrus scent pressed from orange peel — a fragrance oil that can carry compounds which may raise sun sensitivity IngredientSynthetic FluorphlogopiteLab-made mica — reflects light evenly for shimmer or a soft-focus finish and carries pigments smoothly IngredientSynthetic WaxA lab-made wax picked for purity and consistency — gives balms, sticks, and rich creams their structure; no skin claim attached Ingredientt-Butyl AlcoholA fast-evaporating solvent and denaturant — the bitter additive that makes a formula’s alcohol undrinkable IngredientTalcA finely milled mineral — absorbs oil, adds silky slip, and smooths the look of texture; cosmetic-grade is asbestos-free IngredientTangerine OilLight, sweet citrus scent from tangerine peel or leaves — a fragrance oil that may raise sun sensitivity IngredientTapioca StarchA fine plant powder that soaks up surface oil for a soft, velvety matte feel — the natural swap for silica in rich formulas IngredientTara GumA seed-based thickener — adds smooth body and keeps emulsions and suspended bits from separating Ingredient · 2 sourcesTea Tree OilAn acne oil with real antibacterial evidence — 5% compared well to benzoyl peroxide, slower but less drying. Most rashes come from pure oil IngredientTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateAn amino-acid-derived metal binder that keeps stray metals from spoiling a formula — a more biodegradable EDTA alternative IngredientTetrasodium IminodisuccinateA more biodegradable alternative to EDTA — binds trace metals that would speed up spoilage or discoloration IngredientTin OxideA mineral powder used in shimmer products — sharpens pearlescent sparkle and helps color spread evenly IngredientTriacontanyl PVPA wax-like polymer for long-wear products — gels the oil phase and helps films resist water and rub-off IngredientTriethanolamineA mild base used in small amounts to set a formula’s pH and turn carbomer thickeners into a gel — not an active IngredientTriethoxycaprylylsilaneA coating for mineral sunscreen particles and pigments — keeps them spreading smoothly instead of clumping IngredientTriethyl CitrateA citric-acid ester that keeps films flexible — light conditioned feel; can help curb odor-causing bacteria IngredientTrisodium EDTABinds stray metal ions that would spoil a product or weaken its preservatives — it protects the formula, not your skin IngredientTrisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateA biodegradable stand-in for EDTA — it binds stray metals that would spoil a formula and helps preservatives work IngredientTromethamineA mild base used in small amounts to steady a formula’s pH — often there to turn carbomer thickeners into a proper gel IngredientVA/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate CopolymerA film former often paired with sunscreen filters — dries to a water-resistant layer that keeps UV filters evenly in place IngredientVanillinThe compound that gives vanilla its sweet, warm scent — a fragrance ingredient that can sensitize some skin IngredientVP/Eicosene CopolymerAn oil-loving film former that helps sunscreen or makeup resist sweat and water — also spreads pigments and filters evenly IngredientVP/Hexadecene CopolymerA film former that helps sunscreen and makeup last longer and resist water — wear and texture, not a skin active Ingredient · 1 sourceXanthan GumA fermented-sugar thickener common in acid serums and “clean” formulas; judged safe as used IngredientYlang-Ylang OilRich, sweet floral scent from cananga flowers — a fragrance oil that can irritate or sensitize some skin IngredientZea Mays (Corn) StarchCorn starch — absorbs surface oil and moisture and adds a soft, powdery, matte slip Ingredient · 1 sourceZinc PCAZinc plus a hydrator, sold for oily and acne-prone skin. How much it cuts oil hasn’t been measured IngredientZinc SulfateA soluble zinc salt — gives a mild tightening (astringent) effect on the skin’s surface in low amounts

248 of these carry a source we’ve checked — the rest say so rather than guess

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