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Squalene

SqualeneBarrier

Unsaturated form of squalane. Naturally present in human sebum; oxidizes quickly, so cosmetic use is rare.

What it does

Squalene (with an 'e') is the natural unsaturated form found in human sebum and shark liver. The 'a' version — squalane — is the stable, hydrogenated form used in skincare. Squalene oxidizes within hours of opening and the oxidized form is comedogenic and pro-inflammatory. Squalane is the molecule you actually want; squalene appears in older or poorly-formulated products.

The evidence, graded

moderateSqualene is a major component of human sebum, and its peroxide form is present in the stratum corneum of acne-prone skin. A pilot in vivo study found acne-prone skin carried more squalene, and that peroxidised squalene correlated positively with sebum content and porphyrin intensity.Condrò 2023 · Pharmaceuticals (Basel, Switzerland)

Graded per the methodology: strong · moderate · emerging · expert consensus. A weak source on a strong claim gets the weaker label.

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